Zipp Manufacturing I-BOX, Инструкция по сборке

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Initial setup:
Ø
Set strut parallel with bottom, and the prop centerline about ½ inch below the bottom.
The strut will almost touch the bottom at this setting.
Ø
Use the Zipp 470 prop (or a Prather 270).
Ø
Trim tabs should be about 1/16 inch higher than the bottom of the hull bottom.
Set the tabs parallel to the bottom with a ruler or straight edge (they will be 1/16 from the ruler).
Ø
Run the boat, and adjust the strut so that the boat is fast, and runs flat, or flies level.
If the boat starts to chine walk (rock from side to side), move the strut up 1/16 at a time until it
doesn’t.
Ø
Adjust the strut depth and angle to get the boat running well. Don’t touch the tabs until the strut is
set…
Ø
When you have the hull running nice and flat in the straights, it’s time to get the turns working.
Ø
When you adjust the trim tabs, remember that they are very sensitive. ¼ turn will be noticeable.
Ø Look at how the boat turns. Does it hop and roll in the turns? If so, drop the right outer tab ½ turn,
and try again.
What you want to see is the entire right side of the hull in the water when it turns. This is very evident
if you watch where the water breaks from the hull as you go into a turn. It should quickly move
forward as you deflect the rudder.
Ø
Reduce the rudder throw until the boat will just turn on the buoys, and then increase it a little bit.
You will never need any more than this, and too much can flip the boat easily.
Once you get the turns working, use the other three tabs (together) to adjust the hull’s ride
from day to day, as conditions require. If in doubt, make it wet. The water is NEVER calm
when there are 5 or 6 other boats out there.
If you use a stinger (surface) drive, you will probably use a larger prop, but the rest of the
adjustments should be done the same way.
When you get the boat turning correctly, it will actually pick up speed in the turns!
Take the time to get everything right, and you will be rewarded with an incredible running
Crackerbox!