Zipp Manufacturing I-BOX, Инструкция по сборке

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16
1/8 ply top installed, note lip for lid.
Note how lid fits nicely with ample area for
sealing tape.
Skeg slot starts 17-3/4 inch from the transom
Back to the boat:
Make sure that it has been at least 2 hours since
you glued the bottom sheeting to the hull.
With your razor saw, cut all the tabs that are holding
your hull to the building jig.
Lift the hull straight up, to get it out of the two blocks
holding the keel.
Ditch the jig. We don’t need it any more.
Hey, this is really starting to look like something
now!
After you finish admiring your cool new hull, let’s
move on.
Trim the excess bottom and side sheeting flush.
You can use your small plane to get close. Finish
with an 80 grit sanding block.
Don’t spend too much time where the side sheeting
meets the top, as we will come back to this area
later.
Also glue in the two spines that you fitted earlier.
Glue in the center spine. It butts against the keel,
and overhangs at bulkhead 3. The two holes in the
center spine indicate the top front.
Center Skeg
Measure 17-3/4 inches from the transom. This is
the rear of the skeg slot. Make a mark in the center
of the bottom. Measure 2-1/2 inches forward, and
make another mark.
Drill 1/8 inch holes in the bottom at your marks. Use
a straightedge and utility knife to cut the slot
between the two holes in the bottom.
Check to see that the skeg fits properly. If not, find
out why and correct it.
If all is well, pull the skeg out, and set aside. It will
be epoxied in place just before painting.