Zipp Manufacturing I-BOX, Инструкция по сборке

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Spines and center spine installed.
Sealing interior with epoxy finishing resin.
Seam glassed with 6 ounce cloth and epoxy resin.
Sealing Interior
Now we need to seal the inside. It is vital that all
exposed wood be sealed.
We will also glass the rear keel area.
Mix up about 2 ounces of epoxy finishing resin. You
can thin the resin with about 10% acetone, so that it
brushes easily. Go easy on the acetone, as it will
soften the epoxy glue joints if you use too much.
It’s pretty funny to get the inside sealed, and see
the side pop off the boat because you thinned the
sealer too much…Don’t ask!
Start from the front.
Using a brush, coat all areas of wood inside the
hull. Get inside the holes and “Z’s”.
Be careful not to get any resin in the bolt holes for
the skeg.
Try not to get too much resin on the top edges of
the bulkheads and stringers, as it will make it more
difficult to sand later. Be sure to get the bottom
edges of the spines.
Fiberglassing seam
Use 6 ounce cloth, about 3 inches wide. Make two
pieces, one from the back of bulkhead 3 to 4, and
one from 4 to 5.
Mix another 2 ounces of finishing resin.
Brush resin onto the center seam and lay the cloth
down, centered on the seam.
Brush in a very heavy coat of resin, so that the cloth
is completely wetted.
Continue coating the inside with finishing resin.
If you need to mix more, use a new container and
brush. If you don’t, the old resin will mess with the
new resin, and create a problem. Trust me…
After you are 100% sure that all exposed wood
inside the hull has been coated, let it sit overnight.
After the hull sealer has had a chance to cure, let’s
get the hull ready for the top sheeting.