V1.02
Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D300
Page 90
1.
Remove the battery from the camera.
2.
Plug the MH-18a charger into a wall socket.
3.
Slide the EN-EL3e battery into the cut-out on the top
of the MH-18a. The status lamp on the MH-18a
should begin blinking, indicating that the battery is
charging.
Note: The legend next to the light on the charger confuses some
people. If the charge light is blinking (
)
, the battery is
charging. If the charge light is in a steady on state (
•
), the
battery is fully charged.
Note: You do not have to completely discharge the EN-EL3e
before charging it. Lithium-Ion batteries do not usually
exhibit the “memory” effects that NiCad batteries did, and
thus can be “topped off” at almost any time without
consequences. That said, generally you’re better off not
charging the battery if the level is at 90% or higher, as
doing so repeatedly can reduce the overall capacity slightly.
Likewise, you’re best off if you don’t run the battery down
to <5% all the time, as repeated deep charges tend to
reduce the life expectancy of the battery slightly. Neither is
of enough concern to worry about, but if you’re trying to
fully optimize your battery life, only charge it when it’s
between 20 and 80 percent capacity if you can.
The battery charger can’t be used to power the camera, as is
the case with some other cameras. This is a serious design
flaw, in my estimation, adding extra cords and gadgets a
D300 photographer shouldn’t need to deal with. (It doesn’t
help matters that D1 series models used different chargers and
batteries than the D50/D70/D100/D200, which use different
chargers and batteries than the D2h/D2x/D3. Meanwhile, the
D200/D2h/D2x/D3 use one AC adapter while the D300/D80
use another. This proliferation and non-alignment of
battery/charger/AC adapters is a very frustrating aspect of
using Nikon DSLRs while traveling.)