❏
3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the
battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or
weight must be added to the nose to balance. If the nose
drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack
and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight must be added
to the tail to balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack
and receiver to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast
required. If additional weight is required, nose weight may
be easily added by using a
“spinner weight”
(GPMQ4645
for the 1 oz. weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. weight). If
spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use
Great
Planes “stick-on” lead weights
(GPMQ4485). A good
place to add stick-on nose weight is to the firewall (don’t
attach weight to the cowl—it is not intended to support
weight). Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts
of weight on the top of the fuse over the firewall until the
model balances. Once you have determined the amount of
weight required, it can be permanently attached. If required,
tail weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the
fuse and gluing it permanently inside.
Note:
Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone
or epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
❏
4.
IMPORTANT:
If you found it necessary to add any
weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
❏
1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fin. Do this several times.
❏
2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the
other wing tip.
An airplane that has been laterally balanced
will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if
you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is
required
at all AMA R/C club
flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events.
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the
night before you go flying, and at other times as
recommended by the radio manufacturer.
NOTE:
Checking the condition of your receiver battery pack
is
highly recommended
. All battery packs, whether it’s a
trusty pack you’ve just taken out of another model, or a new
battery pack you just purchased, should be cycled, noting
the discharge capacity. Oftentimes, a weak battery pack can
be identified (and a valuable model saved!) by comparing its
actual capacity to its rated capacity. Refer to the instructions
and recommendations that come with your cycler. If you
don’t own a battery cycler, perhaps you can have a friend
cycle your pack and note the capacity for you.
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers
before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most
significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.
Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run hot or quit.
We use a
Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
™
(TOPQ5700)
in the workshop and keep a
Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000)
in our flight box.
Balance the Propeller
Charge the Batteries
Identify Your Model
PREFLIGHT
Balance the Model Laterally
35
