3
USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Before you star t gluing and sanding, take some time
becoming familiar with the plans and looking through this entire
Instruction Booklet. It is designed to guide you through the
construction process step by step, so build in the order given in
this book. Balancing, setting up and flying the model are also
covered.
Like a full-size airplane, the Extra 300 is built from basic
structures (stabilizer, fin, wing, etc.), which are then assembled
into the complete airplane.
Special procedures or comments will usually be explained
before a step, so you will be prepared. If a step begins with a
statement like “Note,” ‘Warning,” or “Important,” it is a good idea
to read through the step before doing it.
A check-off box appears at the beginning of each step. Check
these boxes as you build, so you can tell at a glance what steps
you have completed. Some steps are repeated and must be
marked twice, as in the case of the left and right wing panel.
Some of the instructions deal with general procedures. Boxes
are not needed for these sections.
HOW TO READ THE PLAN
There are two plan sheets in this kit, showing the Fuselage
(Body), the Wing, and the Tail Parts. Everything on the plan is
drawn to full-size and shape and shows how the finished parts
fit together.
The plan is drawn to show the model completely assembled,
but as a result, the areas inside or underneath are covered up,
making it hard to understand how these parts fit together.
Therefore, for clarity, some parts are drawn with hidden lines,
others with breakaway views, and some are entirely removed
from the structure and shown separately.
For example, on the fuselage, the left side of the completed
model has been removed to show the details inside. Sometimes
a surface is broken away to reveal the detail behind or
underneath. Dashed lines indicate details that are hidden behind
or under another part of the surface.
The model is made from four varieties of wood: balsa, bass,
birch, and various plywoods. Each kind of wood has its own
characteristic
end grain pattern (as viewed from the end) which
has been drawn on the plan. You can easily use these end grain
patterns to identify what kind of wood is shown for a part, if you
are in doubt.
HOW TO USE THE PLAN
The plan is used in several ways. The wings, stabilizer, and
fin are assembled directly over the plan. Each wood part is
matched over its corresponding location printed on the plan and
pinned in place. To prevent ruining your plan from gluing your
wings, etc. to it, cover the area you are working on with waxed
paper.
The paper the plan. is printed on can expand or contract
slightly with changes in temperature or humidity. Because of this,
a preformed part such as the notched wing trailing edge may not
exactly match the plan. This is no problem, as slight deviations
in the outline or size will not noticeably affect flight performance.
Because the fuselage plugs together and is self-aligning, it is
not built directly over the plan. As you assemble the fuselage,
you will find the plan helpful in identifying parts and how things
fit together.
The plan also shows the installation of a typical radio, battery
and all remaining equipment and hardware needed to complete
the model. By referring to the examples shown, you should be
able to install your own radio, etc., even if it is not the same as
what is shown on the plan.
IDENTIFYING PARTS
Parts for the wing are bundled together; likewise, parts for the
tail assembly are also grouped. Die-cut plywood and balsa
sheets of common sizes are bundled together, so they are less
likely to be damaged during shipping and handling.
The various screws, hinges, and fittings are packaged in
plastic bags.
PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY
Set a flat, warp-free pinning board on your work bench. Any
material that accepts pins, such as insulation board, soft
plywood, or dry-wall (sheet rock) will work. Important:
any
warps or bends in the pinning board will result in wings or
tail surfaces that are also warped or bent, making your
model more difficult to fly. Make sure that the pinning board
is flat by laying a straight edge across it. You may be able to
correct a warped board by shimming its low areas.
Position the area of the plan (such as the stabilizer) on which
you are going to build over the pinning board and tape it in place
so the plan lays flat and wrinkle free.
Place a sheet of waxed paper or plastic kitchen wrap over the
work area to prevent the C/A glue from sticking to your plan and
ruining it.
CONSTRUCTION TIPS
In assembling your model, the following tips will prove helpful.
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS AHEAD. This
will alert you to coming instructions and will help you plan
accordingly.
You may find it convenient to empty all of the small parts from
the hardware bags into a common container, such as a
margarine tub. This will help you find items quickly.
When drilling any 1/16” holes in balsa, you may find it easier
to twist the drill between your thumb and index finger. This
procedure allows more control in positioning the drill on the
center mark.
Punch out only the die-cut (D/C) parts you need as you
proceed. This will help you keep track of parts, especially the
small ones.
After completing each section of the aircraft, you may want to
go back and reglue the joints, just in case some area has been
missed. Be careful not to use too little glue, which will leave the
model weak or too much glue, which can make the model heavy.
Properly glued joints are important to the overall strength of the
model. Medium C/A glue is recommended for most parts of the
assembly, although Jet Epoxy may be used when more time is
needed for careful placement.
INTRODUCTION
Содержание EXTRA 300
Страница 5: ...5 ...
Страница 44: ...For your next kit ...
