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A WORD ON COUNTERSINKS
The overall success of this project depends somewhat on your ability to accurately countersink the
wood screws, so that the heads lie just below the surface of the wood, but no deeper. There are several
ways to do this:
•
buy a #6 pilot bit (9/64) with matching fluted countersink and stop collar, or an all-in-one #6
pilot / counterbore / countersink tool
•
buy a countersink bit
•
Use a ¼” drill bit in a drill press
The first (shown to the left) is our favorite: very accurate and easy to use. The
second, a countersink bit (shown to the right), is next best. If you don’t do a
lot of wood working, you may not want to invest in these tools. This leaves
using a ¼ drill bit in a press. To do this, first drill through with the 9/64 bit,
then countersink with the ¼ bit, carefully and gradually adjusting the depth
of plunge until the full diameter of the bit just barely cuts into the wood. The screw should then pull the
head down into the wood and just below the surrounding surface. Practice setting the depth on a scrap
of pine until you like the results.
ALWAYS provide a 5/64” pilot in the holding piece of wood, and keep the clutch on your screw gun
set low when driving, or the screws provided are likely to spin out or break.
ASSEMBLING THE BOX
1. Fitting the Wood Parts (Part # CA06.1-4): Arrange the five large pieces of wood as shown in
Figure 4: Combo Cabinet Exploded Parts Diagram on page 44. If you have a preference for the
appearance of grain, color, knots, etc, flip the parts around this way and that until you like the
way they look.
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NOTE:
The cabinet TOP is FRAGILE until glued in place! Handle with care.
Should either of the “ears” break off, glue them back on.
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Summary of Contents for THE PERCOLATOR
Page 83: ...83 That s it The baffle board is done Set it aside until the cabinet is complete 284 285 286...
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