.
149. The provided motor mount parts were designed for the FlyWARE REX220
brushless outrunner motor. However, they should fit most other 22 mm diameter
motors, with little, if any, modifications. If you need to modify the front of the mount
to fit your motor, it is easiest to do this now, before assembly. Assemble the
mounts using the MM-1-2-3-4 parts as shown in the drawing.
150. If you use a different type of mounting, be sure to center the thrust line on the
centering hole on the firewall and allow 3-1/4" from the firewall to the rear of the
prop.
151.
Cover the vertical stabilizers, locate their position on the ends of the horizontal stabilizer, and remove the covering where
they will glue together and for the rudder pushrods. Glue these on making sure they are vertical to stabilizer and the hinge
lines are perpendicular to the same. Make sure the rudder pushrod does not get glued down.
152.
Cover the rudders and hinge them to the vertical stabilizers.
153.
Finish covering the model in your chosen color scheme.
COVERING TIPS:
It helps your
covering job if you brush some SIG
STIX-IT over the concave areas
where you have formed fillets and
other areas that have been filled. Also,
brush some on other areas that are
difficult to seal down such as wing
leading and trailing edge overlaps,
aileron leading and trailing edges and
ends, center section fiberglass, and
wing tip edges. Pre-cover the concave
sections around the nacelles, the
fuselage fairings at the center of the
wings, and the stabilizer-fuselage
joints with 1/2" (12.7mm) wide strips.
154.
Detail the cockpit at this time. The instrument panel is copied from pictures of the
full sized aircraft and is included on a separate sheet inserted in the manual. We
like to line the cockpit floor and sides with colored construction paper to give the
illusion of depth in this area.
155.
Tape a piece of wax paper over the top of the fuselage so it covers up where you
don't want the canopy to stick. Set the canopy in position and lightly mark where it
crosses the hatch part line at the rear. Remove the canopy and apply a very small
bead of epoxy on the inside of the edge from the front back to about 1/8" (3.2 mm)
ahead of the part line, set the canopy in position on the hatch and tape it down
until the epoxy cures. Be careful to avoid getting epoxy into the hatch part line, as
this will make removing the hatch very challenging.
156.
When the glue has cured, remove the hatch and cut away the covering where the hold down will glue down, then glue it
down solid. Trial-fit the hatch and canopy back onto the fuselage and shape the disk until it matches the inside of the
canopy. If the disc is not high enough to meet the canopy, add another disk and work from there.
157.
Once you have a tight fit, drill through the canopy and through the center of the disk with 3/64" (1.2 mm) bit, remove the
canopy and apply 4 drops of thin CA to the hole in the disk. A #2 x3/8" socket head sheet metal screw with a #2 washer can
now be used to hold the hatch/canopy assembly down and allow easy access to the battery compartment. You can paint
this disk to simulate radio equipment to help disguise it.
158.
Clean the plastic cowls with soap and water and then dry. Lightly sand the cowls with #400 or finer sandpaper to break the
glaze on the plastic. Just before you paint, wipe them down with alcohol. With this kind of preparation, most paints will cover
nicely without primer. Since fuel is not a problem, acrylic paints can be used. Most craft stores have a huge assortment of
colors to choose from in these paints in both flat and gloss tones. The canopy frames can be masked off and painted or the
frames can be simulated with trim tape.