Sequoia Aircraft Corporation F.8L Falco, Руководство по монтажу

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F.8L Falco Construction Manual 4–2 Revision 4, March 1, 2002
A dial or vernier caliper is extremely handy. We prefer the dial type, and we have one in inches
only.
For conversions we use a hand-held calculator . You will find such a calculator extremely handy.
We prefer the Hewlett-Packard HP11C programmable calculator. Available for about $60.00 at
discount stores, this calculator is second to nothing. There are other manufacturers of calculators,
but the “reverse Polish notation” system that Hewlett-Packard uses is far superior. It will take
some getting used to, but once you are comfortable with the system, you will never want anything
else. These calculators are the overwhelming favorite of engineers. Since they are programmable,
you can easily program the calculator to convert from millimeters to inches and back. Key in the
millimeter dimension, hit one button, and you have the inch equivalent displayed in an instant.
We would not be without one of these, but you can certainly do with a simpler calculator. As you
will see later, you will find the programming feature a very nice thing to have if you are going to
make your own fuselage frames.
If possible, you should have a long straightedge . These are difficult to find. The only source we
know of is carpet and tile installation supply companies. These eight foot steel straight edges are
used for cutting soft sheet tile. If you search through your local hardware store, you will probably
be able to find some extruded aluminum that will work nearly as well. When you are gluing
trailing edge strips on ribs you will need a way of keeping the ribs in perfect alignment. An
extruded aluminum angle is very handy for this sort of thing, but a straight piece of wood will also
work.
You will need at least one plumb bob . They are absolutely essential and are used for aligning the
ribs, fuselage frames and other things. Plumb bobs are cheap, and we suggest you purchase at least
four of them. When you get to the wing, fuselage and tail jigs, you will end up with plumb bobs
hanging from everything. You can always use one plumb bob and take it from place to place, but
since they are so cheap, it seems a waste of time to do this.
Equally essential is a water level . You can use carpenters levels, but they are nearly useless for the
kinds of leveling you will be doing. You will have to make your own water level, but it is very
simple. All you need is a length of clear plastic tubing—3/8” or 1/2” inside diameter is best. You
can purchase this kind of tubing at a local hardware store or refrigeration/air conditioning supply
company. You might get enough tubing to make two levels. For the wing, you will need one that
will stretch from one end of the wing to the other, so this will require at least 30 feet of tubing.
For other applications, a shorter tube is easier to handle. The water level is made by filling the
tubing with water. Then put some ink in the water, and add some alcohol to keep down the
growth of fungi and mold. A couple drops of dishwasher detergent should be added to break the
surface tension so that reading the level will be easier.
You will also need to make some sort of water level stand . The simplest stand is made with a wood
dowel and a heavy board for the base. To hold the tubing, use a piece of aluminum or wood
which is drilled so that the tubing will just push through the hole without slipping. Drill a hole
for the dowel, slot with a saw and use a bolt and wing nut to clamp it tight to the dowel.
You will need some nylon fishing line , which you will use to align leading edges, trailing edges,
fuselage centerline, etc.
A combination square is a handy thing to have. These are exceptionally versatile instruments. We
like the Starrett squares best. In addition, you will probably also want to buy a carpenters square , a
drafting triangle , and a carpenters level .