Rostock Max Assembly Guide
2
5/16” Wrench (used on the Cheapskate Bearings)
X-Acto Knife or other hand-held razor blade
PermaTex Ultra Copper High Temp RTV (used on the Hot End & Heated Bed)
Kapton Tape
Aluminum Foil
Crimp-On Wire Nuts
Split Flex Tubing (for the Hot End wires)
1 T-3/4 LED (Power on indicator for the Heated Bed)
1 1k 1/4 Watt resistor (for the LED above)
There will be a parts inventory included in the shipping box. Before you begin assembling your
Rostock Max, please check the parts included against this inventory. This will make sure you’ve got
everything you need to complete the assembly of your 3D printer. In the unlikely event that a part is
missing, contact SeeMeCNC immediately. Their technical support is excellent and you’ll have the
missing components on their way to you in no time.
The laser cut components in the Rostock Max kit are held in place with masking tape to ensure
that they’re not damaged in transit. The simplest way to remove these parts from the scrap material is
to use a razor blade to cut the tape around the perimeter of the part.
Each laser cut part also has a protective film on it that must be removed. This film prevents
“flash-over” from the laser cutting process from leaving scorch marks and combustion byproducts on
the parts. The film is removed easily – however, the film in the lettering can be difficult to remove. I
recommend using the edge of a credit card or stiff plastic scraper to remove the remaining film from
these areas.
Finally, take a dry washcloth or shop towel and wipe down the edges of each part. This will
remove most of the “soot” left over from the laser cutting process. If you’ve got an Acrylic kit, you can
of course skip this step.