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Fig. 49b shows a small gap between the pillar and
the base block, and this is acceptable. If the gap is
less than 1/8” the screw that you install in step 50,
along with the string tension will draw the pillar
down, and close the gap. If the gap is wider than
1/8”, however, you will want to fit and glue a shim
under the pillar to fill the gap.
Fig. 49c shows a pillar that is too long and needs
to have some wood removed at the bottom. In
some cases, you may need to remove a signifi-
cant amount of wood using a hand saw. Then
following up with a sanding block or flat file, as
needed.
FIG. 49B
FIG. 49C
____50. Drill a 7/64” pilot hole into the bottom of the pillar to make it easier to install the screw. (fig.
50a) You may need to ask someone to help hold the parts in place for this step. Be sure to follow
the angle of the hole that is already drilled in the base block. You want the screw to match the
angle of the pillar.
Then, insert your 2”wood screw to hold the pillar in place. If you did have a slight gap at the
pillar body joint, the screw will help close that gap here. (fig. 50b) The 1,200 pounts of string
tension on this harp will also help close this gap.
FIG. 50A, B
NOTE:
You might notice some wiggle room in the neck and pillar once you’ve inserted
the wood screw into the pillar. This movement is natural and will cease once the strings
are installed. There is no need for glue on the top block or the base block. We highly
recommend leaving those joints dry so the harp can be easily dismantled again for applying
finish, adding decorations, or making future repairs.
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