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Chapter 9 Finishes, Equipment, and Appliances MJM 40z Owner’s Guide page 40
Underwater hardware
Power-wash the bottom
and check thru hulls and seacocks for growth.
(Inspection of underwater hardware may avoid a
problem in the future.) Replace anodes if
necessary.
Drain water
Flush the engines and the generator
engine and the heat exchangers with fresh water.
Remove engine drain plugs to prevent freezing
water from damaging the engine.
Drain the FRESH WATER TANK, WINDSHIELD
WASHER, WATER HEATER, HOLDING TANK,
GRAY WATER TANK, ANCHOR WASHDOWN, AIR
CONDITIONER, HEAD, ICE MAKER and the
plumbing lines and run non-toxic antifreeze,
through the systems to purge water that could
freeze.
Replace oil
Drain and replace oil in engines,
generator IPS Drives, and Seakeeper and change
filters.
Engine oil drains away in storage, leaving engine
components exposed and vulnerable to corrosion.
Moisture and acids in old oil pit bearings and
internal engine parts. Use a fogging oil to coat
internal components. Warm up the engine to 185
o
before draining oil so heavier metal particles are
picked up and flushed out.
Lubrication
Find grease fittings and service them
with marine grease. Most fittings are in the steering
mechanism area.
Fuel
Fill the fuel tank (a full tank prevents water
condensation). Add fuel stabilizer to prevent
deterioration.
Batteries
Set a trickle charge to keep batteries
topped off.
9.5
S
PRING
C
OMMISSIONING
Commission engines and drives
Review the
manuals in the accompanying binders and in
particular, refer to the VPOM and consult the
manuals for the
GENERATOR,
AIR CONDITIONING
and SEAKEEPER.
Fresh water system
Commission the fresh water
system: the FRESH WATER TANK, WINDSHIELD
WASHER, WATER HEATER, HOLDING TANK,
GRAY WATER TANK, ANCHOR WASHDOWN, AIR
CONDITIONER, HEAD and ICE MAKER. Check
pumps, operate the systems and check for leaks.
Paint
Apply anti-fouling paint to the IPS drives, the
props and the bottom if needed.
9.6
H
AULING
O
UT AND
B
LOCKING
Refer to the illustration titled
Boat Lift & Bunk
Offsets
in
the Appendix
page 43 before lifting the
boat with a Travelift or a crane with straps.
The fore and aft lift points are approximately
abeam of the windshield and the aft end of the
hard top respectively. Weight-bearing supports
should be at the keel (centerline of the boat) and
chines (edges).
Point-loading flat areas other than
centerline and chine or setting the weight of
the hull on supports of insufficient area may
damage the hull. A 6-8 ft. metal “V” Channel
should be placed under the keel forward of the
transom on top of a trailer support point between
the drives to avoid point-loading the laminate.
9.7
T
RAILER
L
OADING
C
HECKLIST
1.
Place cockpit & pilothouse cushions below on
island berth.
2.
Remove canvas from bimini, detach aft legs
and hinge the main hoop forward against the
hardtop. Secure the short legs, pad the main
hoop where it touches the hardtop (AC hose),
secure the hoop to handrails with fender
whips.
3.
Hinge down VHF antenna and reverse tape it
to starboard handrail. Hinge down running light
and tighten.
4.
Remove KVH or FLIR tower and seal hardtop
openings and wire connections. Wrap domes
and strut in blanket. Park it in a pilothouse
locker
,
or shower, braced with throw pillows.
5.
Max height over road is 13’6” if standard radar
dome is bolted to hardtop without strut.
6.
Wrap plastic around horn trumpets.
7.
Face searchlight aft and secure the anchor
chain grabber.
8.
Latch all cabinet doors, drawers and fridge.
9.
Don’t apply adhesive tape to any surface,
particularly ultra leather.
10.
Turn off all battery switches and make sure the
INVERTER is off.
11.
Never permit the boat to be loaded stern first
or you will spend a lifetime cleaning the boat!
12.
Shrink-wrapping isn’t recommended. It can do
damage if it breaks loose.
13.
Exchange contact information with the driver
and the destination yard so you may maintain
contact.
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