Elite Greenhouses 6'3" WIDE HIGH EAVE, Инструкции и иллюстрации

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13. The greenhouse is now ready for lifting on to its permanent base.
14.
If you are fitting the greenhouse onto soft ground, you now need to dig 1 hole (approx 1
spade width) in each of the 4 corners.
15.
Lift the greenhouse into position. For soft ground fixing, you now need to attach the cor-
ner bracket (base anchor) to the bolt slot of the side and end using the end of the bracket
that has 2 holes as oppose to 4. The bracket must be attached in such a way that the end
with 4 holes is pointing down into the hole previously made.
SQUARING UP
You must make sure that the structure is level and square. Put one pane of glass (a 610
x 610mm piece would be sufficient) in each corner of roof, each pane must be level with
the small glass retaining lip just above the gutter and be running parallel with the roof
glazing bars. Each corner must be the same. If one corner is out the corner diagonally
opposite will also be out. By carefully pushing and pulling each corner diagonally you
will be able to see the frame move in and out of square with the glass.
HARD STANDING
Having established the square of the greenhouse, drill the patio or concrete in the re-
quired positions, fit plastic plugs and screw the brackets (attached during subassembly)
firmly to the ground using 35mm x 8mm round head screws.
SOIL FLOOR
Determine the square of the greenhouse as described above, make a mix of concrete and
dig out a couple of shovelfuls around the base of each stake. When the concrete has
gone off back. Fill with the soil excavated earlier on.
FITTING THE DOOR TO THE STRUCTURE
The door slides onto the frame from the left hand side.
Put the door bottom rail into the bottom door track and slide to the right, feed the first
wheel into the upper door track and move further to the right until the black draught ex-
cluder butts up to the end glazing bars. Carefully ease the door past the glazing bar and
feed in the second wheel. Push further to the right until both draught excluders are butt-
ing up to both end glazing bars.
Carefully ease the door past the two glazing bars. The door will now run quite freely.
To square up the door with the spacing, undo the upper bolts holding the door track.
There is a little play to facilitate “fine tuning” of the door. N.B. Sometimes the door can
be a little stiff prior to glazing but once the glass has been inserted (the last job of the
construction) the extra weight will make for smooth running.
(Key point).