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7.PROBLEMS, CAUSES AND SOLUTIONS
SALT WATER CHLORINATOR
Anomalies
Probable causes and solutions
The auto clean is not occurring.
(The electrodes have scale build-up)
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Check the salt level (too low). (See section 4.4)
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Check that the cell is producing (chlorine level).
(See section 4.2)
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Manually clean it. (See section 8.1.4)
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Modify the polarity reversal frequency
(see section 6.1.4)
The chlorine level in the pool is less than
0.5 ppm.
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Increase the production level. (See section 6.1.2)
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Daily filtration operation time too short. (See
section 4.5)
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Not enough salt. (See section 4.4)
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Not enough chlorine stabiliser. (See section 4.3)
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Scale build-up on electrodes. (See section 8.1.4)
Level LEDs struggle to light up.
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Salt level too low. (See section 4.4)
Level LEDs struggle to light up.
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Salt level too low. (See section 4.4)
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Water temperature low
Level LEDs all lit up but chlorine level is a bit
low.
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Check that the production setting is on maximum.
(See Section 6.1.2)
The pump control panel’s circuit breaker trips.
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Look at the salt water chlorinator’s electricity
consumption (add 1A to circuit breaker’s settings).
The LEDs do not light up.
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Is the switch properly on?
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Is the pump operating?
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Check the electrical connection.
The red ‘ALARM’ indicator does a double
flash.
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Not enough flow in the cell.
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If this fault persists, contact your pool professional.
The red ‘ALARM’ indicator flashes four times.
Spike, short circuit.
The red, green and yellow lights flash at the
same time.
Cell power below 2V (check salt level).
The last of the six green level LEDs is
flashing.
Production automatically drops because the cabinet
temperature is too high >85°C.
Smell of chlorine
Too much chloramine.
Not enough active chlorine in the pool
(see chlorine level < 0.5 ppm).
The electrodes build up scale quickly.
Poor water quality. Check or have someone check:
the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness
see section 4.2) or adjust the reversal time (see section 6.1.4).
