11
slab above the heater terminal box in position. Fix the corner pieces to the covering slab and lower it in
position. Press the cover into place.
2.6. Remote control
The heater can be remote-controlled by means of a weekly clock (Kastor CT 2005) or impulse switch
connected to the On/Off switch. The connection is made between CC panel terminals 19 and 20.
2.7. Sauna light CC 50 control panel
The sauna light can be controlled by a relay in the heater (6, 8 and 10 kW models) or in the relay box RB 45
(12.5 and 15 kW models).
The phase lead to the light is connected to terminals 40 and B. If this function is activated, the following
warning label must be attached to the relay box: WARNING! TWO VOLTAGE SUPPLIES TO THE BOX.
3 STEAM ROOM INSTRUCTIONS
3.1. Steam room
The thermal insulation of the walls and ceiling must be sufficient to avoid excess loss of heat. Wood is the
most suitable surface material A wooden surface warms up quickly and radiates a pleasantly uniform heat to
the bather's skin. Avoid masonry and other aggregate surfaces in the walls, as stone retains too much heat and
would require a considerably more powerful heater than a wood-clad room of the same size. One square meter
of stone surface on the wall or ceiling above the heater equates to 2-3 cubic metres of additional volume in the
steam room. A glass door or glass windows have a similar effect on room dimensions. Log walls require an
additional 25% of added heating capacity. Excessive height also calls for greater heater output.
The distance between the upper bench and the ceiling should not be too great, as the temperature decreases
towards the floor. A suitable distance from the bench to the ceiling is about 110 to 120 cm. It is advisable to
install the heater as low as possible (with due regard to safety distances). The steam room dimensions are
given in
Table 2
.
3.2. Proper ventilation
Efficient air exchange in the sauna is very important. A suitable air exchange rate for a family sauna is about 6
times per hour. Air is removed from the steam room either through gravity (traditional, “natural circulation”)
or mechanically by means of an extractor fan.
Mechanical ventilation (Figs. 2 and 3):
Fresh air
is drawn in (preferably from outdoors) through a 100 mm pipe located at least 500 mm above the
heater (
a
) or from below the heater close to the floor
(b)
provided that steps are taken to ensure that the cool
air flow does not pass directly to the outlet vent. What is important is that fresh air is efficiently mixed with
the hot air and steam inside the sauna.
Outlet air
is preferably drawn from under the benches
(c)
as far away
from the fresh air inlet as possible.
Outlet air may also exit through the washing room, e.g. under the door
(e)
. It is also advisable to install a
drying vent
(f)
back of the benches near the ceiling. This vent remains closed during heating and bathing and
is opened for the drying of the steam room after use. The extractor fan is kept running throughout the bathing,
and it is extremely important to allow it to operate during final drying. The fan may be stopped for the
duration of pre-heating.
Gravity circulation - natural ventilation (Fig. 4):
Fresh air
is drawn in from outside via a 100 mm pipe, preferably from beneath the heater or its immediate
vicinity close to the floor
(b)
, or alternatively from above the heater
(a)
. What is important is that fresh air is
efficiently mixed with the hot air and steam inside the sauna. The
outlet air
is drawn preferably from under
the benches (
d
). A drying vent should be provided near the ceiling (
f
). It is advisable to position the outlet vent
as far away from the fresh air inlet vent as possible. Outlet air may also exit through the washing room, e.g.
under the door
(e)
. This vent may be closed for the duration of pre-heating. The outlet air vent must have a
larger diameter and be placed higher than the inlet air vent.
