Electrolux 5995502399, Service Manual, Page: 99 / 173

Water System
5-5
Checking Water
If you do your voltage checks and find you have the
correct voltage at the coils and the valve is not letting
water through, replace the valve. To see which valve is
bad, disconnect the water line from the filter to the inlet
of the secondary valve. Place the line in a bucket.
Ice Maker Valve
Run the ice maker through a fill cycle and see if water
will pass through the valve (Green Coil) and the filter
into the bucket. If it does, replace the secondary valve.
If it does not, remove the primary valve, disconnect the
outlet line from the primary valve, and run the ice maker
through a fill cycle. If there is still no water, replace the
primary valve. If water is coming through, replace the
water filter.
Chilled Water Valve
Place a glass against the actuator and push in to see if
water will pass through the valve (Yellow Coil) and the
filter into the bucket. If it does, replace the secondary
valve. If it does not, remove the primary valve, then
disconnect the outlet line from the primary valve and
place a glass against the actuator and push. If there is
still no water, replace the primary valve. If water is
coming through, replace the water filter.
Low/No Voltage At Coil(s)
There are a number of connections in the wiring harness
of a refrigerator. Check for good connections at all
connection points in the ice and water wiring harness.
On the ice maker, the wiring runs through the plug by the
condenser fan motor up to the ice maker, back down to
the same plug and into the diode harness.
On the water dispenser, the wiring runs from the plug
by the condenser fan motor to the plug at the bottom of
the freezer door, up to the dispenser, and back down
through the same plugs to the diode harness. A bad
connection at any of the plugs or wire terminals can stop
the valves from operating. One common problem is that
the connector on the water valve coil is pushed on with
the valve terminal over the top of the terminal in the plug.
Valve Coil
The production valves use a 15 watt coil to open the
primary water valve. The Ice Maker coil (green coil) of
the secondary water valve is a 35 watt coil. This should
open the valve down to about 90V at the green coil of
the secondary valve. The water through the door coil of
the secondary water valve ( yellow coil) is a 15 watt coil.
Voltage Readings Are Different Between Primary And
Secondary Valve Coils
If you are getting 10V or less at the primary valve, but
you are getting 85V to 100V at the secondary, you have
a bad diode. If you are getting 48V to 58V at the
primary valve and 90V or higher at the secondary, this is
normal. With the current flowing to the primary valve coil
through the diode, you are getting 30 cycle instead of 60
cycle current at the coil of the primary valve. Because of
this, your meter will only read about 1/2 the voltage that
is going to the coil.
No Water at Door
If the ice maker is operating but you can not get water
out the door, the test and operation of the diode is the
same as the ice maker except for the voltage readings.
On the water side you should read the same voltage at
the coil of the secondary valve as you have at the outlet.
On the primary valve, the voltage should read 60V to
70 VAC. If the voltage is low at the primary, but good at
the secondary, the diode is faulty. If the voltage is low
at both the primary and secondary valve, there is a bad
connection or a bad switch in the door dispenser.
Diode Kit
If you have a problem with the diodes, order the diode kit
part number 5303918287. (See Figure 5-6) The diodes
are part of the wiring harness for the machine
compartment.
Tan Wire
Yellow Wire
Tan Wire with
Yellow Tracer
Diode Replacement Kit 5303918287
For Ice & Water Side By Sides With A Water Filter
Figure 5-6. Diode Replacement Kit