Dakota PARLOR Assembly Instruction Manual Download Page 30

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30.

Now you are ready to apply the finish. Here are some recommendations:

STAIN -- STAINS

are coloring agents and should only be used if you dislike the natural color of the wood. We generally dis-

courage people from trying to stain this project because the natural wood grain is so beautiful with a simple clear finish. It is

difficult to mask off the soundboard, for instance, and just stain the sides and back of the body because the stain tends to “bleed”

under the masking tape. If you are a novice at finishing, or facing a deadline for completion, we especially recommend avoiding

stain.

OIL

-- An oil finish (such as Watco Danish Oil) will give your wood a low luster appearance, bringing out the natural color of

the grain, but it tends soak into the wood and appear dry and “thirsty” after awhile. The principal advantage of an oil finish is

that it can be applied and wiped dry immediately, allowing you to proceed to installing hardware (and strings) right away. The

disadvantage of oil is that it usually does not give much surface protection or sheen, unless you know how to polish out many

coats of gun stock oil.

POLYURETHANE

-- Any polyurethane will work fine on this project, but we like the solvent-based ones better than water-

borne versions. One of our favorites is a wipe-on satin Gel Topcoat polyurethane that comes with our Instrument Finishing Kit.

The advantages of this finish are its simple application (no drips or runs), durability, and deep, soft luster.

LACQUER

-- Many professional instrument makers still use nitro-cellulose lacquer for their finish. The most readily available

lacquer is called Deft Clear Wood Finish (semi-gloss). If you choose this product, it is best to purchase a can of liquid Deft to

brush on as a sealer coat first, and then use an aerosol can of the same product to spray the final coats. The advantage of this

finish is its quick drying time, but the disadvantage is the strong odor and toxic lacquer fumes. CAUTION: Lacquer finish may

smear some painted decorations or blister some types of decorative decals. If you plan to add paints or decals to your instru-

ment, it would be better to finish with polyurethane instead of lacquer.

So choose your weapon and proceed with finishing all the wood parts except the top of the fretboard. Plan on applying at least

three coats of finish. If you don’t use our Gel Topcoat, be sure to follow the directions on the can.

Don’t forget to finish the truss rod cover too!

Use a clean cloth to wipe off any sanding dust from the wood. Some people buy tack cloth for this purpose, but we just use a

clean rag.

Another option is to wet the rag with denatured alcohol (from the hardware store) for cleaning the wood more fully. Alcohol

does not raise the grain like water does, and it evaporates quickly, leaving no spots. But this trick is not a necessary step -- just

kind of fun to do. The alcohol will give you a preview of the beautiful depth and color of the wood.

APPLYING THE FINISH

INSTALLING HARDWARE AND STRINGS

____59. When the finish is dry, and you are happy with the results, you

can begin installing the last few pieces. The first item is the African

Blackwood nut that gets glued at the end of the fretboard, as shown at

right (fig 59a).

It is easiest to trim and shape it before gluing it in place. It should stand

just a little higher than the #0 fret. We like to slope the top down toward

the peghead as shown in fig 59b.

When you have the nut trimmed and shaped, use Superglue or 5-minute

epoxy to glue it in place.

Fig 59a

Fig 59b

African

Blackwood

Nut

Summary of Contents for PARLOR

Page 1: ...MUSICMAKER S KITS INC PO Box 2117 Stillwater MN 55082 651 439 9120 harpkit com DAKOTA PARLOR GUITAR KIT ...

Page 2: ...nstrument There is no need to look for any special violin maker s adhesive You may however see epoxy or superglue recommended occasionally for installing non wood parts Every time you use wood glue on this project it is wise to have a damp rag handy for cleaning up afterwards It is always best to scrub away any excess glue that squeezes out of the joints before it dries especially on the outside o...

Page 3: ...u may need to gather more tools or purchase a few optional decorations or accessories to enhance the finished instrument Now is a good time to make those plans so you can avoid delays later Here are a few of the small items you ll want to have on hand sharp chisel wire cutter 8 spring clamps 2 long reach clamps for braces masking tape blue clothes pins 8 small c clamps 40 ft bungee cord 3 16 dia c...

Page 4: ...surface of tail block Fig 5c Fig 5d Fig 5e _____6 Now you can move to the heel end of the instrument Mark the center of the heel block on the end marked Back fig 6a Glue this heel block to one heel rib for now aligning it to the centerline as shown in fig 6b Clean up excess glue with a wet rag as usual IMPORTANT Leave the other heel rib for later That will be the last step in clos ing the frame Fi...

Page 5: ...can apply glue and then tape the parts together again as you clamp this last joint together permanently fig 8b _____9 Once the frame is closed and the glue is dry you can install the long spacer block between the heel and tail blocks as shown in fig 9 This piece will be removed later but you need it now to hold the frame to the correct size Note that the ends of the spacer will fit into the pre cu...

Page 6: ...the kerfing but don t do the back edge yet that will be easier to do later Fig 10d Fig 10e Fig 10c _____11 OPTIONAL You can reduce the weight of your guitar a little by trimming off the large inside corners of the corner blocks as shown in fig 11a This step is optional but it is recommended The illustration shows a chisel but we use a power drum sander to do this job more quickly You ll want the c...

Page 7: ...ood time to open up the slot for the tenon in the heel block so it looks like fig 12a below You could do this by hand with a sharp chisel and or razor knife but we use a router with a flush trim bit fig 12b The goal is to trim away all rib material that covers the pre cut slot in the heel block Pencil hash marks on the kerfing around body as shown in fig 13c Then use your flat sander to level the ...

Page 8: ...es the soundboard fig 14c Fig 14a draw line to mark heel end of frame Fig 14b Fig 14c WRONG RIGHT _____15 Find the two X braces and connect them together in the middle Note that there is a wrong orientation for these braces fig 15a When properly oriented the X will match the outline on the soundboard as shown in fig 15b Center the X on the soundboard and mark where the ends of the braces cross you...

Page 9: ...When all is ready glue and clamp them in place to the sound board pressing them against your flat clamping board NOTE be sure to put glue in the notch where the two braces intersect Use the spacer block or other long scrap across the soundboard to press the intersection firmly fig 16 Wipe off excess glue and leave the clamps in place for 3 4 hours until dry Fig 16 _____17 When the braces are dry u...

Page 10: ...ing the short ones _____19 Use a sharp chisel to round over tops of braces and to taper ends to about 1 8 high around the perimeter of the soundboard fig 19a Switch to medium sandpaper 150 grit to smooth the tops of all braces fig 19b Fig 18 1 8 high at end bridge plate finger braces transverse brace additional top brace Fig 19a Fig 19b _____20 Fit and glue the three short est braces around soundh...

Page 11: ... of your smaller plywood instead of 4 away from the guitar as shown Fig 21a spacer block Fig 21b When ready spread glue all around the edge of the guitar frame including the kerfing and put the frame back on the sound board making sure there are no obstructions preventing a nice flat fit If using Bungee cord tie a loop at one end hook it on a nail and work your away cross the instrument in spider ...

Page 12: ...fig 24 Fig 24 _____25 Set a com pass to match thick ness of the back edge with kerfing as shown in fig 25a Then use that setting to draw the inside outline on the back panel as in fig 25b Fig 25a Fig 25b _____26 Measure where the heel block and tail block will fit on the back panel The heel block extends 1 3 4 44 5mm in from the outer edge of the frame as shown in fig 26a The tail block extends ju...

Page 13: ...n use the spacer block to support the clamping pressure when gluing each brace in place thus forming an arched back panel Make sure you have at least one clamp that will reach to the middle of the brace as shown in fig 28b When ready glue each brace in place separately being careful to center it on the centerline over the outline you drew for that brace in the previous step and supporting it with ...

Page 14: ... is the direction of the curve in the back panel and it will give you nice firm glue joints around the perim eter of the frame when clamping the back in place Turn the frame over on top of the back panel and check carefully to see that the braces do not interfere with the kerfing fig 30d Take your time with this Trim any braces that are too long to fit inside the frame If you end up applying clamp...

Page 15: ...n that is not held firmly Watch for glue squeezing out of the joint that s a good sign of sufficient pressure Fig 31b _____32 When dry trim off the excess overhang of the soundboard and back flush with the outside of the body We like using a flush cutting router bit fig 32a for this step Move the router clockwise around the instrument this is called climb cutting to minimize the chance of chipping...

Page 16: ...water for just 1 2 minutes before bending it around the guitar Fig 33d Fig 33e 16 BINDING STRIP CHISEL Fig 33f SANDING BLOCK Fig 33g Make a test cut in a scrap of wood and check the fit of the binding strip fig 33b Then test fit again using a sanding block to make small adjustments to the ends until they are just the way you want them fig 33g We like to make mitered joints in the binding at each c...

Page 17: ...ing for the heel end just as you do for the tail end fig 33m Notice that the binding at heel end of the back will not be covered when you install the neck so you don t want any gaps in the back binding Then you can fit the two side bindings in place last around the back side Fig 33m Once the binding is installed and dry remove all the tape being careful to avoid lifting the grain of the spruce sou...

Page 18: ... progress by holding the card against the wood fig 35c Fig 35b Fig 35c Fig 35d Hold a straight edge against the fretboard to make sure the wood is still straight across the top from one end to the other fig 35d You don t want any depressions or high spots in the playing surface Use a coarse sanding block to do the major leveling fig 35e Fig 35e _____36 OK HERE S ANOTHER OPTIONAL STEP Many people l...

Page 19: ...shaped with a rounded cap that stays on top of the wood and a thin tang that will fit tightly down into the pre cut slot Use a small hammer to tap one end of the tang into the slot and work your way across to the other end of the fret checking to see that it is fully seated along the way It should go easily re quiring only 4 8 taps for each fret fig 38b Continue the same process with the rest of t...

Page 20: ... D as shown in fig 39d to help you plan your adjustments _____39 Temporarily clamp the fretboard to the neck carefully centering it and leaving enough flat space at the narrow end to allow for the ebony nut Use a pencil to outline the fretboard as shown in fig 39a These lines will be helpful reference points as you do more shaping on the neck to fit your grip Remove the temporary clamps and set th...

Page 21: ...evel fig 40 Try to keep the sanding block from rocking too much as you work on the end of the guitar You should not have to remove much material but you want to get rid of irregularities in the surface like glue blobs bumps and depressions in the wood HINT When you assemble the neck to the body you should be able to slide the neck up or down about 1 16 to get the top of the neck level with the top...

Page 22: ...need to make sure it lines up with the centerline on the body fig 42b Use the bolt to hold the neck in place as you lay a straight edge down the center of the neck to see how it aligns with the body If it is off sand one side of the heel a little further to straighten the neck Be sure to keep track of which side needs work Use your A B C D marks fig 42c Fig 42b Fig 42c Assemble the parts again and...

Page 23: ... press the fretboard firmly down against the neck especially where the tiny nails are located fig 45a This will create pin pricks under the fretboard to keep the parts from sliding out of position during gluing space for nut Get some clamps and scrapwood ready for clamping the fretboard onto the neck Look at the following photos to see how we press these parts together Fig 45a space for nut Fig 45...

Page 24: ...k on it until you like the results _____47 Now it is time to do final shaping and sanding of the neck and fingerboard assembly We like to clamp it upside down at the heel so we have both hands free for filing sanding scraping etc fig 47a The goal is to reduce the thickness until it feels good in your hands for playing If you don t play guitar you might ask a musical friend to help evaluate the nec...

Page 25: ...ck permanently it is smart to sand the soundboard now when the fretboard is not in the way Use a sanding block with fine 180 220 grit sandpaper to smooth especially the area where the fretboard will cover fig 50 This is also a good time to use sandpaper to round over the inside edges of the sound hole just to remove splinters and make it smooth to the touch Fig 48 Fig 49a Fig 49b Fig 49c Fig 50 __...

Page 26: ...ue around We like to wrap the rag around a putty knife or thin screwdriver to help clean into the corners fig 51c This will save you some frustration later Fig 51b Fig 51c ____52 Find the thin walnut heel cap for cov ering heel of the neck and trim it a little over size before gluing it in place fig 52a You ll want to fit the edge that meets the body nicely fig 52b Use sandpaper to smooth it off a...

Page 27: ...ote We recommend leaving the straight side as is That will make it easier to align the bridge properly on the soundboard Don t reduce the size of the bridge any smaller than the bot tom sample at right The best way to proceed is to draw the outline you want right on the wood then cut and sand to the lines Be sure to sand the cuts to smooth the edges nicely Original size Custom shape ____55 When yo...

Page 28: ...ch screw Then use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten the two inner screws on the bridge clamp fig 55d You should see some glue squeezing out around the bridge from this pressure Make sure to slide a scrap of wood under each of the end screws to protect the wings of the bridge as you screw pressure onto them fig 55e We actually use a thin wood scrap with a piece of thick leather or fabric underneath...

Page 29: ...want to put varnish on this surface because it can become gummy over time from your fingers You can oil it lightly linseed oil after the rest of the guitar is finished but we just leave the playing surface unfinished Rosewood has enough natural oils to resist moisture on its own Finish with tape across last fret ____58 Find the little truss rod cover plate and sand one side to prepare it for finis...

Page 30: ...uct it is best to purchase a can of liquid Deft to brush on as a sealer coat first and then use an aerosol can of the same product to spray the final coats The advantage of this finish is its quick drying time but the disadvantage is the strong odor and toxic lacquer fumes CAUTION Lacquer finish may smear some painted decorations or blister some types of decorative decals If you plan to add paints...

Page 31: ...t is not necessary on this kit You can cut these notches using a very small V shaped needle file or triangle file You just need to file them deep enough to make sure the strings will rest firmly on the 0 fret You ll need to angle the file downward toward the peghead and avoid cut ting into the 0 fret as shown in fig 60b We like to cover the peghead with thin cardboard to protect it from being scra...

Page 32: ... need to be slightly ta pered to accept the bridge pegs A cheap and simple way to do that is to use a small 6 rat tail file fig 63b You can chuck it into your hand drill and spin it in reverse as you push it gently into the hole Be careful not to file too far it is best to fit the pegs fairly snugly fig 63c Fig 63a Fig 63b Fig 63c ____64 Test fit the first string on the guitar pushing the ball end...

Page 33: ...ing it the other way will increase the bend So be careful to watch which way your adjustment is affecting the guitar DO NOT FORCE THE TRUSS ROD NUT Some people have broken the nut right off the rod by torquing it too much Contact us if you need assistance b If the neck is pretty straight and the string is still too high above the 12th fret then you need to shave the saddle a little lower at the br...

Page 34: ...ll the neck forward You may also shim up the saddle in the bridge to raise the strings a little higher or change to heavier gauge strings to exert greater tension on the neck e If a string rattles or buzzes at just one or two positions frets or if you discover that two or three frets all give the same pitch then look for a fret that stands up higher than its neighbors You will need to either tap t...

Page 35: ...guard fits around the inlaid ring very nicely and it is simple to install just peel and stick Fig 66 Fig 67 ____68 If you d like to amplify your guitar one nice option is to install a piezo pickup inside with a jack at the tail end that serves the double purpose of a strap button and output jack We offer either single sensor or double sensor piezo pickups at Musicmaker s and they are excellent qua...

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