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EN
We want you to have a great fun with your pool for many years, so it
is imperative that you give the appropriate importance of preparation
space. The better and tighter the space is ready, the longer you will
have to enjoy your swimming pool. We therefore ask you to use rea-
sonable care. Carefully select the site for your new pool. This is the
most important decision you will have to make to ensure the safety
and success of your pools construction. An incorrect site could
cause problems in the future that may cause injury, death or finan-
cial loss. Read carefully the check list set out below when selecting
your site.
Acceptable:
Flat, level, firm and dry ground with easy access to all sides of the
poolExposed to direct sunlight, preferable in the morningSafe access
to electricity for running the filter pump and other pool accesso-
riesAccess to a water sourceProtection from wind
Not acceptable:
Sloping groundSandy, grave and swampy groundClose to wooden
construction e.g. Pergola’s and deckingNext to deciduous or leafy
treesOver-head wires and clotheslinesDrains, electric wires or gas
pipelines underneath the siteLoping groundPoor or little drainage or
high flood risk locationsHigh wind conditions
Tools required (not included):
• Screwdriver• Small shifter• Clips• Sprit level• Sharp knife• Site ex-
cavation tools• Protective gloves
Estimated assembly time is about 2-3h (Please take into account
that this is an approximate guideline time, the indviduelle up time
may also vary due to the number of people.)
LEVELING THE AREA
Warning! Leveling is extremely important: Take as much time as
possible to work out a site that is completely firm and level.Use a
carpenter’s level and straight edge to ensure that the site is com-
pletely level, flat and firm!. The pool contains a huge amount of wa-
ter and thousands of kilos of weight.Should the pool collapse due to
unleveled ground, it could cause a lot of damage to property and
even human injury or death!Remove the higher ground rather than
filling the low laying ground.
See diagram 2, A: Remove high spots, B: Do not fill low spots
Mounting with pelvic floor insulation:
If you interpret the pelvic floor with insulation (shatter-proof), it is
necessary to put the whole pool to the insulation.
Bring to a maximum of 3cm thick, flat gravel layer and compress
them, then put the insulation into the bottom gravel bed.
For a concrete foundation instructions are the same, with the con-
crete slab replaced the gravel bed (thickness depends on the local
conditions about 15 - 20 cm with iron reinforcement).
! NOTE-in-ground installation
For underground installation of the swimming pool, you must provide
a suitable pressure protection around the pool. This can be made
from lightweight concrete, lean concrete or by establishing a revolv-
ing wall.
Why backfill? The pressure of the back-filling with earth or gravel is a
multiple of the water pressure. If the stabilization is no backfill with
light or lean concrete, the pool may collapse when emptying.
Beck installation without floor insulation:
Concrete slabs beneath the bottom rail connectors are not essential
for stability and safety, but their installation is recommended. Other-
wise, it may result in subsidence, which can damage the pool in the
sequence. The concrete slab should be recessed flush with the in-
stallation location.
Around the pool should be a space of 1.2 meters remain free so that
children could climb to fall into the pool.
Attention! Always remove grass and stones within the circle.If clear-
ing Couch, Kuku a grass, use the ground cover provided to ensure
that the grass doesn’t penetrate the pool liner and cause damage.
ASSEMBLING THE POOL BOTTOM RAILS
Unpack all packaging inside the pool on the ground and check if all
components are present according to the parts checklist.
Connect the rails together with rail connectors following on the same
sequence as the step 1-2-3 on diagram 3.
IMPORTANT: Leave about 1,5 cm gaps between 2 ends of the rail
as shown in the step 3 of the diagram 3.
Complete the same steps until all 8 rails on the bottom. (See dia-
gram 4)
Unpack the ground sheet and put it on the ground, then place the 8
bottom metal pieces under the rails in correspondence with the 8
joints. (See diagram 5)
FIXING THE POOL WALL
It is advisable to wear protective gloves when handling the metal
walls.
Put the metal sheet on the ground cloth, cardboard or a piece of
plywood in a vertical position as shown in diagram 6. A: Window for
skimmer. The 2 pcs of 3M adhesive tape are preinstalled on the
both ends of the metal sheet.
IMPORTANT: Make sure the square window (for skimmer) is at the
top of the steel wall when it is standing up.
Choose a place where the Skimmer and filtration system will be
placed.
Note: The open window for the skimmer should be placed in the di-
rection of the electrical supply to connect the filtration system.
Insert the steel wall into the bottom rail. For this operation you need
to start to insert the end on the steel wall in correspondence with the
center of one bottom metal piece as shown in diagram 7.
Then uncoil the whole wall and insert it into the bottom rail until the
circumference is complete as shown in diagram 8.
When the wall is completely inserted in the bottom rail, connect both
ends of the pool wall together. (See diagram 9)
Line up the screw holes and place the bolts through the inside of the
pool. Washers and nuts should be on the outside of the pool wall.
(See diagram 10, A: inside, B: Outside)
Once complete, attach and tighten the nuts. (See diagram 11, A:
Use the screw to fix head and tail of the pool wall)
Attach the adhesive tape to the bolts to protect the pool liner. (See
diagram 12, A: inside, B: outside, C: adhesive tape)
Check to see if the pool wall is level. (See diagram 13)
Warning!
A pool that is not level is very dangerous and may col-
lapse at any time.Also check if the pool wall is round and measure
the diameter across a few spots to make sure the differences of di-
ameter measured are within 2 cm.
FITTING THE PVC POOL LINER
NOTE-If you use no floor insulation
Cover with some clean sand (no stones and other debris) the
bottom part with a height of about 1-2 cm from and condense
this. On the tank wall, a peripheral wedge is to be made in a tri-
angular shape (chamfer) and should not exceed 7 cm. With this
little trick you avoid that the entire water pressure will damage
the foil and slipped under the metal wall. To avoid running away
of the sand, you should as shown below, in addition affix a
plastic film along the pelvic floor. (See diagram 14)
1) flute 2) Tape 3) Plastic film 4) steel wall
NOTE-If you use a floor insulation
