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Page 11
1.4.6 Diodes
When installing diodes note that they are oriented with a stripe —
match the stripe on the diode with
the banding (||) stencil on the board.
1.4.7 Hardware/Mechanical
Not all of us are mechanically oriented. So, the kit is well laid out such that all the hardware is
provided and bagged in individual sections, so things should make sense. Start thinking
mechanically because about a third of the kit is mechanical. The first thing to remember is that good
hardware is beautiful: we use all stainless steel metric hardware in the kits. It truly is a thing of
beauty: don’t rush your hardware! Here are a few helpful things to understand:
We use British metric hardware (M3, M4, M5, screw size 10mm, 15mm, etc..) as opposed to the
American imperial system (5/1000th or 50/1000th, 1 inch, 3/4 inch). Please familiarize
yourself with the hardware in the kit.
The screws will be called M3 or M4, which is the diameter of the shaft. The length of the shaft
will be in millimeters, so you will encounter things like an M4 screw 16mm, a PAN head screw
(which is a round spherical head), or a COUNTERSUNK or FLAT head screw (a screw head that
needs to be flush with a surface — for example, under a transformer). So if you are asked to
use an M3 16mm CSK screw, this is an M3 size (obviously), which is a thinner shaft diameter
than an M4; 16mm is the length of the shaft; and the head type is CSK, which is a countersunk
or flat head screw.
Once you have the screws mastered, look at the matching nuts such as M4 nut or M3 nut and
corresponding washers.
Standoffs are common in the kits (again, they are either M3 or M4 size, with different
lengths). They are typically threaded, so the screw goes into them.
If any of the hardware is confusing or something is not fitting right, please email us.
1.4.8 Wire Stripping and Tinning
When it comes to wires, we typically use 18 gauge (thicker) and 22 gauge in the kits. It's PTFE: Teflon
silver-plated copper wire. Basically this is classed as hook-up wire; we typically twist wire for you
when it needs to be. The other wire we use is called shielded cable, like an AN-A (Audio Note (UK)) for
signals. This is two-conductor wire: one is for the Signal and the other (a big Ground braid wrapped
around the Signal wire) is the shielding, which helps prevent the cable from picking up noise. You
should practice stripping some 18g or 22g wire, and then try tinning this wire; this is the process of
adding solder to the bare wire so that the invisible coating on the wire is burned off. This makes for
easy soldering to a PCB, an RCA connector, or a transformer terminal. So it's a good idea to practice
this a little before starting the kit.
Summary of Contents for L5
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