AEG ACS183060, Original Instructions Manual

Page: 27 / 36

27
27
Wear a helmet at all times when operating the product. A helmet,
equipped with mesh visor, can help reduce the risk of injury to the
face and the head if kickback occurs.
An incorrectly tensioned chain can jump off the guide bar and could
result in serious injury or fatality. The length of the chain depends
on the temperature. Check the tension frequently.
You should get used to your new chainsaw by making simple
cuts on securely supported wood. Do this whenever you have not
operated the saw for some time.
To reduce the risk of injury associated with contacting moving parts,
always stop the motor, apply the chain brake, remove the battery
pack and make sure all moving parts have come to a stop before:
■ cleaning or clearing a blockage
■ leaving the product unattended
■ installing or removing attachments
■ checking, conducting maintenance or working on the product
The size of the work area depends on the job being performed as
well as the size of the tree or work piece involved. For example,
felling a tree requires a larger work area than making other cuts, i.e.,
bucking cuts, etc. The operator needs to be aware and in control of
everything happening in the work area.
Do not cut with your body in line with the guide bar and chain. If you
experience kickback, this will help prevent the chain coming into
contact with your head or body.
Do not use a back-and-forward sawing motion, let the chain do the
work. Keep the chain sharp and do not try to push the chain through
the cut.
Do not put pressure on the saw at the end of the cut. Be ready to
take on the weight of the saw as it cuts free from the wood. Failure
to do so could result in possible serious personal injury.
Do not stop the saw in the middle of a cutting operation. Keep the
saw running until it is already removed from the cut.
Push and pull
See figure 9.
The reaction force is always opposite to the direction the chain is
moving. Thus, the operator must be ready to control the tendency
for the product to pull away (forward motion) when cutting on the
bottom edge of the bar and the push backwards (towards the
operator) when cutting along the top edge.
Saw jammed in the cut
Stop the chainsaw and make it safe. Do not try to force the chain
and bar out of the cut as this is likely to break the chain, which may
swing back and strike the operator. This situation normally occurs
because the wood is incorrectly supported which forces the cut to
close under compression, thereby pinching the blade. If adjusting
the support does not release the bar and chain, use wooden
wedges or a lever to open the cut and release the saw. Never try
to start the chainsaw when the guide bar is already in a cut or kerf.
Personal protective equipment
See page 23.
Good quality, personal protective equipment as used by
professionals will help to reduce the risk of injury to the operator.
The following items should be used when operating your chainsaw:
Safety helmet
– should comply with EN 397 and be CE marked
Hearing protection
– should comply with EN 352-1 and be CE marked
Eye and face protection
– should be CE marked and comply with EN 166 (for safety
glasses) or EN 1731 (for mesh visors)
Gloves
–
should comply with EN381-7 and be CE marked
Leg protection (chaps)
–
should comply with EN381-5, be CE marked and provide
all-round protection.
Chainsaw safety boots
–
should comply with EN ISO 20345:2004 and be marked
with a shield depicting a chainsaw to show compliance with
EN 381-3. (Occasional users may use steel toe-cap safety
boots with protective gaiters which conform to EN 381-9
if the ground is even and there is little risk of tripping or
catching on undergrowth)
Chainsaw jackets for upper body protection
– should comply with EN 381-11 and be CE marked
INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE PROPER TECHNIQUES
FOR BASIC FELLING, LIMBING, AND CROSS-CUTTING
Understanding the forces within the wood
When you understand the directional pressures and stresses inside
the wood you can reduce the “pinches” or at least expect them
during your cutting. Tension in the wood means the fibers are being
pulled apart and if you cut in this area, the “kerf” or cut will tend to
open as the saw goes through. If a log is being supported on a saw
horse and the end is hanging unsupported over the end, tension is
created on the upper surface due to the weight of the overhanging
log stretching the fibers. Likewise, the underside of the log will be
in compression and the fibers are being pushed together. If a cut is
made in this area, the kerf will have the tendency to close up during
the cut. This would pinch the blade.
Felling a tree
See figures 1 - 8.
When bucking and felling operations are being performed by two
or more persons at the same time, the felling operations should be
separated from the bucking operation by a distance of at least twice
the height of the tree being felled. Trees should not be felled in a
manner that would endanger any person, strike any utility line, or
cause any property damage. If the tree does make contact with any
utility line, the company should be notified immediately.
The chainsaw operator should keep on the uphill side of the terrain
as the tree is likely to roll or slide downhill after it is felled.
An escape path should be planned and cleared as necessary
before cuts are started. The escape path should extend back and
diagonally to the rear of the expected line of fall.
Before felling starts, consider the natural lean of the tree, the
location of larger branches, and the wind direction to judge which
way the tree will fall.
Remove dirt, stones, loose bark, nails, staples, and wire from the
tree.
Do not attempt to fell trees which are rotten or have been damaged
by wind, fire, lightning, etc. This is extremely dangerous and should
only be completed by professional tree surgeons.
1. Notching undercut
See figures 1 - 6.
Make the notch 1/3 the diameter of the tree, perpendicular to
the direction of the fall. Make the lower horizontal notching cut
first. This will help to avoid pinching either the saw chain or the
guide bar when the second notch is being made.
2. Felling-back cut
See figures 1 - 6.
Make the felling-back cut at least 50 mm/2 in. higher than the
horizontal notching cut. Keep the felling-back cut parallel to the
horizontal notching cut. Make the felling back cut so enough
wood is left to act as a hinge. The hinge wood keeps the tree
from twisting and falling in the wrong direction. Do not cut
through the hinge.
As the felling gets close to the hinge, the tree should begin
to fall. If there is any chance that the tree may not fall in the
desired direction or it may rock back and bind the saw chain,
stop cutting before the felling-back cut is complete and use
wedges of wood, plastic or aluminium to open the cut and drop
the tree along the desired line of fall.
When the tree begins to fall remove the chainsaw from the cut,
stop the motor, put the chainsaw down, and use the retreat path
planned. Be alert for falling overhead limbs and watch your
footing.
Removing buttress roots
See figures 7 - 8.
A buttress root is a large root extending from the trunk of the tree
above the ground. Remove large buttress roots prior to felling.
Make the horizontal cut into the buttress first, followed by the
vertical cut. Remove the resulting loose section from the work area.
Follow the correct tree felling procedure after you have removed the
large buttress roots.
Bucking a log
See figures 9 - 11.
Bucking is cutting a log into lengths. It is important to make sure
your footing is firm and your weight is evenly distributed on both
feet. When possible, the log should be raised and supported by the
use of limbs, logs or chocks. Follow the simple directions for easy
cutting. When the log is supported along its entire length, it is cut
from the top (overbuck).
When the log is supported on one end, cut 1/3 the diameter from the
underside (underbuck). Then make the finished cut by overbucking
to meet the first cut.
When the log is supported on both ends, cut 1/3 the diameter from
the top (overbuck). Then make the finished cut by underbucking the
lower 2/3 to meet the first cut.
When bucking on a slope always stand on the uphill side of the
log. To maintain control when “cutting through”, release the cutting
pressure near the end of the cut without relaxing your grip on the
chainsaw handles. Don’t let the chain contact the ground. After
completing the cut, wait for the saw chain to stop before you move
the chainsaw. Always stop the motor before moving from tree to
tree.
Limbing a tree
See figures 12 - 13.
Limbing is removing the branches from a fallen tree. When limbing,
leave larger lower limbs to support the log off the ground. Remove
the small limbs in one cut. Branches under tension should be cut
from the bottom up to avoid binding the chainsaw.
Springpoles
See figure 14.
A springpole is any log, branch, rooted stump, or sapling which is
bent under tension by other wood so that it springs back if the wood
holding it is cut or removed.
On a fallen tree, a rooted stump has a high potential of springing
back to the upright position during the bucking cut to separate the
log from the stump. Watch out for springpoles—they are dangerous.
WARNING! Springpoles are dangerous and could strike the
operator, causing the operator to lose control of the chainsaw.
This could result in severe or fatal injury to the operator. This
should be done by trained users.