Royal Enfield 350 BULLET 1949, Руководство по техническому обслуживанию мастерской

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ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
(See Section C1 or C2.) The top gear pinion and
dog will come away with the mainshaft.
The layshaft can then be removed and the
2nd and 3rd gears drawn off the final drive
sleeve together with the operator fork.
To take out the final drive sleeve, the final
drive sprocket must be removed and this is
preferably done before removing the inner
cover. (See Section C1 or C2.)
3. Removal of the Ball Races
The mainshaft ball bearings can be removed
by using a stepped drift 1.7/16 in.–1.11/64 in.
diameter for the bearing in the box and 13/16
in.-39/64 in. diameter for the bearing in the
cover.
When refitting the bearings stepped drifts of
2.5/16 in.-1.11/64 in. diameter and 1.11/16 in.-
39/64 in. diameter must be used for the bearings
in the box and cover respectively.
Note the felt washer in the recess behind the
larger main shaft bearing and the dished
pen-steel washer between the bearing and the
felt washer. The second dished pen-steel
washer, if fitted, has a smaller central hole and
is on the other side of the main shaft bearing and
is nipped between the inner face of the bearing
and the shoulder on the final drive sleeve. See
that both of the dished pen-steel washers have
their raised portions facing towards the clutch
and final drive sprocket.
4. Gear Change Mechanism
If the two nuts securing the gear change
ratchet mechanism are slackened, the adjuster
plate can be set in the correct position. In this
position the movement of the gear lever
necessary to engage the ratchet teeth will be
approximately the same in each direction.
If the plate is incorrectly adjusted, it may be
found that, after moving from top to third or
from bottom to second gear, the outer ratchets
do not engage the teeth on the inner ratchets
correctly.
If, when fitting new parts, it is found that the
gears do not engage properly, ascertain whether
a little more movement is required or whether
there is too much movement so that the gear
slips right through second or third gear into
neutral. If more movement is required, this can
be obtained by filing the adjuster plate very
slightly at the points of contact with the pegs on
the ratchet ring.
If too much movement is already present, a
new adjuster plate giving less movement must
be fitted.
5. Re-Assembling the Gearbox
The procedure is the reverse of that given in
Subsection 2 but the following points should be
noted:
If the main shaft top gear pinion and dog
have been removed, make sure that the dog is
replaced the right way round or third and top
gears can be engaged simultaneously.
Make sure that the trunnions on the operator
fork engage with the slots in the inside operator.
See that the main shaft is pushed right home
(It may tighten in the felt washer inside the final
drive shaft nut.)
The layshaft top gear and kickstarter pinion
should be assembled on the layshaft and the
kickstarter shaft and ratchet assembled on to it
before fitting the end cover. Do not forget the
washer on the layshaft between the kickstarter
pinion and the kickstarter shaft.
The joint between the gearbox and the inner
cover should be made with gold size, shellac or a
similar jointing compound.
Make sure that all parts are clean before
commencing assembly. In normal climates the
recesses in the gearbox should be packed with
soft grease and the box should be filled up to the
correct level with gear oil. (See Subsection 9.)
On no account must heavy yellow grease be
used.
6. Dismantling and Re-assembly of the Clutch
The method of removing the clutch is
described in Section C1 or C2.
When re-assembling, note that two of the
steel plates are dished and that the other(s) are
flat. The correct order of assembly is shown on
the exploded drawing.
Do not forget to replace the cush rubber plate
retaining cover before fitting the pressure plate.
Make sure that the distance tubes inside three
of the springs pass through the holes in the
pressure plate. The other three springs are
located by means of bosses on the clutch cap.
Tighten the spring pins as far as they will go
If the clutch lifts unevenly it is probable that one
of the springs has taken a set, in which case new
springs should be fitted.
7. Adjustment of the Clutch Control
It is essential that there should be about 1/16
in. free movement in the clutch cable, to ensure
that all the spring pressure is exerted on the
plate.
There are two points of adjustment for the
clutch cable. The first is at the top of the gearbox
just behind the oil filler plug and is provided for
taking up any stretch in the cable. The
adjustment is made by screwing the collar in or
out of the gearbox shell. The connection between
the end of the cable and the horizontal lever can
be seen if the top small inspection cover on the
front of the gearbox is removed. Tighten the
locknut on the screwed collar after adjustment
has been made.
The other point of adjustment is behind the
lower inspection cover on the front of the
gearbox and is for compensating for wear on the
clutch plate inserts. To make the adjustment,
remove the inspection cover, slacken the locknut
and turn the
central screw. Tighten the locknut after
adjustment has been made.
The reason for the two points of adjustment is
to enable the lever behind the cover to be kept in
its proper position whether the need for
adjustment is caused by plate wear or cable
stretch.
Owing to initial bedding down of the clutch
plate inserts, the clutch control may require
adjustment after the first few hundred miles with
a new machine. This point should therefore be
examined soon after delivery and adjustment
made if necessary.
On earlier models the clutch operating
mechanism is exposed on the front of the
gearbox, but the adjustments are, however, the
same in principle as those described above.
The cable adjustment is at the bottom of the
front of the gearbox just in front of the kickstart
lever. The collar is screwed in or out of a lug on
the gearbox cover and is secured by a locknut as
before.
The other adjustment is made by slackening
the clamping bolt in the horizontal lever and
turning the lever on its spindle, which is the end
of the operating worm in the gearbox cover.
When correctly adjusted, the lever should be
approximately square with the cable when the
clutch is fully lifted.
The position of the lever endwise on the
worm spindle is important and it should be
positioned so that it does not foul the kickstart
lever.
8. Adjustment of the Neutral Finder
The neutral finder is adjusted by means of an
eccentric stop secured to the front of the gearbox
cover by a bolt which limits the travel of the
operating pedal. Slacken the bolt and turn the
eccentric stop until the correct movement of the
pedal is obtained.
9. Gearbox Oil Level
The gearbox is replenished with oil by
removing a plug in the top and the correct level
can be checked by removing a second plug lower
down on the right hand side looking at the cover.
On earlier models a dip-stick is attached to the
filler plug for measuring the level of the oil or
was provided loose in the tool kit.
On some models the filler plug is on the side
of the gearbox and in such cases the oil should be
level with the plug hole and no dip-stick is
required. The oil will be found to run into the box
more easily on these models if the engine is
started up and allowed to tick over so that the
gears and shafts rotate.
Section E1 Page 4
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