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When the pads are correctly aligned,
there will be a gap (arrow) between the
top of the pad and the top of the rim. As
the pads wear down, check they don’t
overlap onto the tyre. Check also that
curved pads follow the curve of the rim.
Now a check on pad wear. If there’s a
‘wear line’, as on the pad at the front,
they’re OK until the line is reached.
If-there’s no wear line, change the pads
when they reach 2 mm from the bottom
of the grooves, as on the back two pads.
Modulator devices are fitted to some
braking systems. The one arrowed above
is an inline modulator, usually found on
a child’s bike but there are various other
types. Do not tamper with modulator
settings as they are set at the factory.
Check brake pads
V-style brakes
Brake modulators
WhEEL Rim
ConDition
For maximum braking power, check pad
alignment and wear. Check also that
there’s an equal gap between the pad
and the rim on either side. If there isn’t,
adjust the gap using the tiny adjuster
screws at the pivots.
V-style brakes are very efficient and only
need a very light pull on the lever when
properly adjusted. If you have to reach
too far for the brake levers, you can bring
them closer to the handlebars with a
hexagon key or Philips screwdriver.
New rim
Worn rim
Special cavity
On most bicycles the
brakes work by pressing
on the wheel rim. This
gradually wears the rim
wall away. If the rim wall
gets too thin it may fail
allowing the tyre to come
off the rim - which is
potentially dangerous.
To prevent this occurring
there are two ways of
checking when a rim has
come to the end of it’s
useful life and should be
changed:
A “wear-line” on the
outside of the rim in the
form of a groove. When
this groove has been worn
away the rim should be
changed.
A special cavity inside the rim.
The rim should be changed
when this starts to appear as
a slot in the sidewall.
During winter, the rims can
become very greasy. So to
maintain full braking power,
clean them with an Extreme
Degreaser, if the brakes don’t
seem to have their usual bite.
