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stEERing, hEADsEts AnD hAnDLEbARs
When you’ve got the saddle height and position right, you can fine tune your riding
position by altering the angle of the handlebars. On some bikes, you can also adjust
the height of the handlebars. Don’t forget that altering the angle of an adjustable
stem also alters the height of the handlebars.
Your back should be roughly 45° to the ground but this is not a hard and fast rule. It’s
also a good thing to have a slight bend at the elbow to help absorb road shocks. In
fact, most mountain bikes are designed to provide the correct back angle and arm
reach for the majority of riders. If you have a problem getting comfortable, consult
your retailer about altering the handlebar stem length, the height of the handlebars
or even fitting different ones. Always check the alignment of the handlebar stem with
the front wheel, if you move anything else.
If there’s any free play in the steering bearings, you’ll get brake judder, judder over
bumps and steering wobble as well. Tight steering may also be a problem. These are
potentially dangerous so if you don’t feel confident about making the adjustment,
take the bike to your retailer.
As part of the 21 point safety check, make sure the stem clamp
bolts and the handlebar clamp bolts are all tight enough to
prevent the handlebars moving.
To check the steering bearings, pull
the front brake on and wrap your
fingers round the top steering bearing.
Then try to push the bike gently
backwards and forwards, keeping the
back wheel on the ground. If you can
feel of hear any movement the headset
needs to be tightened.
While there should be no play in the
steering there should be no stiffness
either. This can be checked by lifting the
front of the bike so that the wheel is off
the ground and turning the handlebar
with a finger. The wheel should move
smoothly right and left without sticking.
For adjustment of steering bearings see
the appropriate section on the next page.
Steering play -
Too loose
Steering play -
Too Tight
