47/KODAK M-SERIES PROJECTORS
through the shutter. Lubricate the face of the in-and-out cam
with grease.
On reassembly, time the shutter to the in-and-out cam just as
you learned for the M-series, Fig. MD20. Notice in Fig.
MD20 that there's one tooth between the highlighted timing
mark on the in-and-out cam and the edge of the shutter blade.
The timing mark on the in-and-out cam now points directly
to the shutter blade.
Seat the shutter-drive shaft, Fig. MD16, and tighten the
screw on the black bracket. As you tighten the screw, make
sure the two cam-tension shafts, Fig. MD21, remain straight
and free. The cam-tension shafts pass through the bracket; if
the bracket shifts in position, it will bind the cam-tension
shafts.
Before going further in reassembly, lubricate the cam on the
shutter-drive shaft, Fig. MD22, with grease. Also grease
lubricate the teeth of the shutter gear and the in-and-out cam,
Fig. MD22.
SCREWDRIVER TIGHTENING BRACKET SCREW
CAM-TENSION SHAFTS
FIG. MD21 Front of projector, viewed from
bottom.
GREASE
CAM ON SHUTTER-DRIVE SHAFT
SHUTTER
ARM ON STILL-MODE HEAT SHIELD
SPRING
One spring sometimes slips out of place as you're working
with the shutter—the spring shown in Fig. MD23. Make
sure the spring is connected to the arm of the still-mode heat
shield as shown in Fig. MD23.
You can now complete the reassembly. As mentioned earlier,
simply reverse the order of your disassembly. Adjustments
are similar to those in the M80--even though they don't look
the same and are at different positions. The adjustment
shown in Fig. MD24 adjusts the forward/reverse changeover
(just like using the eccentric on the forward/reverse arm in
the M80). To change the depth of claw engagement, you can
add or remove washers to the cam-shaft gear, Fig. MD15
(between the cam-shaft gear and the E-clip). The effect is to
move the complete in-and-out cam.
FIG. MD22 Grease lubrication points.
ADJUSTMENT FOR FORWARD/REVERSE CHANGEOVER
FIG. MD23
FIG. MD24
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