13.
Do increase the Bionizer Output Level (increase ion
production)
to compensate for times of heavy rain and
bather load that may deplete the ion level and put the
pool at risk of algal attack. The Boost function is there
for this purpose also.
14.
Do try to keep the pH between 7.0 and 7.4
as copper is
less effective against algae when not within this
neutral range.
15.
Do try to keep the calcium hardness level around 200
at all times unless you have a fibreglass pool so 150+
is adequate.
16.
Don't take advice from anyone who is not
experienced with ionizers. This type of expert opinion
is often prejudiced by the criteria surrounding costly
pool chemicals. Additionally, recommendations
more often than not reflect the criteria followed with
chemical based pools and are not applicable to
ionized water. Be guided by these instructions at all
times.
17. "Shocking" the pool after initial start-up should only be
required if the pH and copper levels in the pool have
been let lapse and created an algal attack.
Use of a 'pH
Boss' will eliminate any threat of algae attack that
would be caused by your pool’s pH being too high.
This can occur during times of extreme heat and/or
rain. In this instance a one-off heavy dose of liquid
chlorine to dissolve the coating is the cheapest and
easiest solution. This heavy concentration of chlorine
will dissipate rapidly as unstabilized Chlorine is 90%
removed from your pool in 3 hours of sunlight, leaving
the pool ready to swim in once again.
(Refer super
chlorination section.)
18.
DO NOT
use any form of stabilised Chlorine, either in
tablet or granular form. When stabilised Chlorine is
used, the Cyanuric acid (stabiliser) will accumulate in
your pool to gradually higher and higher levels. This
will actually reduce the effectiveness of the Chlorine
being added, so you will find your Chlorine use
spiralling out of control. Additionally, excess Cyanuric
acid levels will react with Copper Ions, producing a
purple stain of Copper Cyanurate. This can easily be
scrubbed off, but can leave a mark if not treated
promptly.
Additionally, the use of granular chlorine broadcast
over a pool surface can result in streaks of undissolved
copper falling to the pool floor. This causes a contact
zone at very high pH and Chlorine levels right on the
floor itself. This can cause a dark grey or even a black
stain on the floor of the pool which can be very difficult
to remove.
Therefore,
DO
use liquid chlorine. This form is low cost,
contains no stabiliser and will dissolve readily into the
pool water therefore not resulting in any staining. Add
doses of liquid chlorine after sunset, so that UV does
not cause it to dissipate, and it will work through the
night to oxidize your pool. Within 3 to 4 hours the next
morning, this unstabilised Chlorine will be dissipated
by the sun’s UV light and you will be back to swimming
in a Chlorine-free pool once again.
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