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9-1-2022
APQS.com
Quilting Basics
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Option 1:
Use a tighter stitch to attach the binding. There is a greater
risk that those stitches will work loose from under the binding and
begin to unravel.
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Option 2:
Quilt into the ¼’’ seam allowance and back on to the quilt’s
main surface, rather than to quilt completely off the quilt and back
on to the top again, if you are concerned about the quilting stitches
coming undone.
Attach the Side Clamps
After you’ve secured the quilt edges using one of the methods described in “Stabilizing the Quilt’s Left and Right
Edges,” place your side clamps on to the backing fabric. Adjust their pressure so that they don’t distort your
backing fabric; they should keep your backing smooth.
If you find that the machine runs into the clamps, one easy trick is to reverse them. Use a straight pin and attach
the loose elastic ends to the backing fabric, then lift the clamp buckle and tighten up the elastic. The clamp itself
will hang free.
Method 1 – Machine Basting the Quilt Edges
Use the quilting machine to run a basting stitch along the outer edges of the quilt, just as you did for the quilt’s
top edge. If you choose this method, begin by securing your thread in the seam allowance of the quilt’s outer
border, along one side edge. Carefully stitch along the edge, trying to stay inside the seam allowance for the
binding.
To help keep the side edges from scooting as you work down the quilt, try stitching the left edge of the quilt from
“top to bottom” (move from the leveler bar toward the quilt top roller), and then stitch the right border from
“bottom to top” (from the quilt top roller to the leveler bar).
A word of caution
–
the straight basting stitch method locks the quilt edges in place at a taut, stretched-out stage,
and allows for no shrinkage from quilting on the quilt top’s interior. When the quilt is removed from the machine,
the result can be a wavy border edge. If your side borders are generous, then consider using the “tacking baste”
method where you put one stitch every inch or so instead of sewing down the edge. This still allows fabric
movement as you quilt. (You’ll still need to use pins to re-mount the quilt if you decide to turn it on the frame to
do the sides.)
Method 2 – Pin Basting the Quilt Edges
This method is quick and has less impact on the quilt’s edges once the binding is attached, since the outer raw
edges can relax once the quilt’s off the frame. Place pins inside the ¼-inch seam allowance, keeping them tip
to head.
Pinning isn’t practical if you plan to do an edge-to-edge design that will spill off the quilt’s outer edges as you will
run into the pins. Pinning is used more for custom quilting where you can watch the needle. Pinning is also helpful
if you are going to turn the quilt and re-mount it to do the side borders.
