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edge. Also cut or untie the strings which hold the nose battens in the sail, and remove the
battens from the sail. Cut the swan lever bungee return at the lever. Spread the wings
slightly, undo the velcro tabs inside the rear ends of the leading edges and then dismount the
sail from the rear leading edges. Tape the sail plugs in position on the leading edges so that
they do not become switched side to side inadvertently.
3) Unbolt the bottom side wires from the control bar and feed them through the hole and into
the sail. Detach the bottom front and rear wires from the control bar legs. Unbolt the control
top elbows at the control bar apex from the apex slider on the keel. Unbolt the bottom rear
flying wires from the rear keel. Re-assemble the hardware removed onto the bolts in the
original order so that it doesn’t get lost. All disassembled assemblies on the glider must be
re-assembled in the proper order and orientation. Use the exploded parts diagrams in this
manual to help you.
4) Undo the velcro which holds the front part of the keel pocket together. Untie the VG
activation rope from the becket on the forward triple block, and unthread the VG activation
rope from the two triple blocks and the cheek block on the side of the keel. Untie or cut the
short piece of 4mm accessory cord to disconnect the lower compensator wire from the
crossbar center cable. Set the control bar aside.
5) Turn the glider over. Unroll the sail until you can reach the bridle attachments at the trailing
edge. Remove the plastic bridle retainer balls and disconnect the bridles from the sail.
6) Remove the screw that holds the kingpost top cap in place and carefully remove the cap.
Remove the top front and top side wires from the kingpost top. Re-install the cap. Unbolt
the kingpost from the base bracket on the keel. Set the kingpost aside.
7) Unbolt the tang which connects the webbing strap sewn to the rear of the sail to the rear
keel. Unbolt the top rear wire, lower compensator wire and sweep wires from the keyhole
bracket.
8) Feed the top side wires into the sail through the holes in the sail. Turn the glider over onto
its back again. Unzip the center bottom surface zipper all the way. Slide the frame aft
slightly, and then forward and out through the open center zipper. If you encounter resis-
tance, stop and find out what is hanging up.
9) If you need to send the sail into the factory for repair, remove the mylar. On early model
sails, it must be slid out the front of the pocket from inside the sail working through the
bottom surface center zipper. On later model sails, it is removed from the aft end of the
mylar pocket. It helps to secure the opposite end of the sail to something solid, so that you
can lay the leading edge out straight and pull the mylar straight out of the pocket. If you have
trouble getting it to slide out freely, it is probably because the edge of the mylar has worked
its way into the seam and gotten stuck on the adhesive seamstick tape. Work your way up
and down the leading edge pocket rolling the mylar away from the seam until it is free along
its entire length. Fold and package the sail carefully if you plan to ship it in for repair. Be sure
to include written instructions of what you want done, your name and a phone number where
you can be reached during the day.