25
13.
Once you have the VCF Output jack fit, place the other jacks with conflicts as per the list above,
forming the frames of the jacks to avoid causing short circuits with signal traces. Then, place all
remaining 3.5mm jacks, the momentary push switch in the EG section, and all six slide switches.
Use a caliper to set the elevation of the mounting nut on the push switch to 12mm from the base.
14.
Place the power LED, paying attention to polarity. Push it all the way into the board for now.
15.
Carefully, gently, patiently, drop the panel down onto the main board, making sure all the sliders,
jacks and switches come through. The first time you do this, it will take some time and jostling
about. Work from left to right, and install a few nuts to the jacks to prevent them dropping back
out. Be patient. Once the panel is fully seated, install the four previously removed stilts through
the panel and into the 12mm spacers below. Install ~12 of the nuts to various 3.5mm jacks,
tightening them LIGHTLY. Make sure you hit all the corners and the middle sections. The objective
here is to get all the jacks seated properly, and set a consistent 12mm distance between the panel
and main board, all the way across. If you have some extra stilts, place them at the four outer
corners of the panel, secured with nuts, and pointing up. This will prevent the panel from bowing
down near the edges.
16.
Flip the work over and place it down on the stilts. Press down across the board to eliminate any
gaps.
17.
Start soldering with the slide switches. Make sure each of them falls down so that its bezel is
contacting the back side of the panel. Apply solder to only one pin. While the iron is still on the
work, reach under and push up on the switch to bring the solder pin back up to flush with the PCB
surface (not protruding). Remove the iron and allow the solder on the one pin to harden. Test
the switch to make sure it can be moved with your finger. Once you are satisfied with the switch
placement and elevation, solder the remaining pins, being sure to fill in the through holes. Repeat
for the remaining switches. This might seem convoluted, but it is in fact much easier and less
error prone than using the little riser boards that we discarded earlier.
18.
Solder the momentary gate push switch.
19.
Make sure the power LED is dropped down into position on the panel. Bend the leads out, cut
and solder. If your kit includes a flat top LED, drop it just down to flush with the panel front, for
improved appearance.
20.
Solder all pins, all 3.5mm jacks. Make certain the panel and PCB are pushed tightly together to
12mm clearance, all around. Periodically check this, especially near the edges of the panel, if you
don’t have stilts installed at the corners
.
At this point the main board solder assembly is complete. Remove the top side stilts, the jack nuts and
separate the panel. The panel does not go back on until all checkout and calibration is complete. It will
be much easier to install the next time. Now put the stilts back on the front, into the 12mm spacers.
CONSTRUCTION
–
MAIN BOARD FINISHING UP
1.
If you are using sockets, install all op amps, main board. Start with the TL071 in the Lag Processor.
All the rest are LM301. Double-check the orientation, using the silkscreening on the board as a
guide.
2.
Build wire jumper assemblies:
a.
11 inches / 30 mm five-way, .156 wire housings, for the DC-DC converter to main board
power connections. These terminations flip; position 1 on one housing equals position 5
on the other.