
18
5.
Flip the board back over and remove the cardboard. Check by feel for any loose components.
Hold the board up to a light source. Any holes that permit light yet appear to be obstructed
indicate a missed solder joint.
6.
Remove the four M3 screws holding the stilts on, and replace them with 50mm stilts (front side).
7.
Referring to the LED Section table, install all parts (resistors, diodes and transistors) for the LED
sections, front side of the board. Reach under and splay the legs out to keep the parts in place
(don’t use the backing board here). Don’t miss the two resistors and one diode that are vertically
oriented, located next to the clock rate slider footprint. Double check your diode orientation.
Slider LED sections, Front Side
Value
Qty
220r
6
680r
1
3k3
1
10k
1
12k
1
47k
8
1N4148
2
2N3906
1
BC337
8
Table 8 LED Sections
8.
Flip the board face down, cut and solder the LED section parts.
9.
Remove the four stilts on the front side, replace with M3 screws.
10.
If you elect to omit the DIP8 sockets, install the op amps now. Otherwise, proceed to the next
section. Install the backer board, tape, and flip the work. Solder all pins at 600f/315c. In the
following step you will be installing capacitors only.
11.
Place the DIP8 sockets. Then, place all of the ceramic/C0G capacitors. Sockets and ceramic caps
have roughly the same board profile so can be soldered at the same time. If you purchased the
Synthcube full kit, the 10uF electrolytic capacitors included have a lower profile than other
polarized caps. They can be worked in with this batch.
Val
RM
VCO1
VCO2
VCO3
VCF
EG
VCA
MIX
Noise
VP
S&H
Amp
Total
Socket
6
1
4
1
2
1
7
3
3
3
2
33
3p3
1
1
2
5p
1
1
10p
1
1
5
2
4
13
12p
1
1
20p
3
2
1
4
3
2
15
33p
2
3
1
1
4
1
3
2
17
47p
5
1
1
5
1
13
100p 1
2
2
2
2
9
220p 1
1
2
330p 1
1
1
3
1n
1
1
4
6
2n2
1
1
1
3
3n3
1
1