.
Screw one threaded link and jam nut onto the threaded end of each rod. Solder one of the unthreaded links to the other
end of each.
Drill #44 holes through the stab and fin trailing edges at the brace wire attachment points drawn on the plans.
Fit the wires to the model. Bend the ends of the links as needed to make them fit flat against the model surface. Use 2-
56x1/2" bolts and hex nuts to fasten the links through the stab and fin. Use #2x3/8" sheet metal screws to hold the bottom
of the lower brace wires to the plywood tailwheel mount.
Adjust the threaded links and jam nuts until the wires are snug, but not pulling the tail surfaces out of shape.
Paint the tail brace wires after installation with epoxy paint.
24.
Installing The Windshield And Side Windows
Cut the windshield from the 1-1/12"x17" clear plastic sheet, using the pattern on the plan. Cyanoacrylate adhesives (Hot
Stuff, Jet, etc.) work best for gluing the windshield in place on the fuselage. This is a tedious and sometimes frustrating job
- but a little patience and thought will usually be rewarded with a good fitting installation.
First pin the windshield in place as well as possible for a trial fit. Readjust where
necessary. Then go around the edges and tack glue in several places. It's best to
start gluing near the middle of the nose top and at the top of F5. Then work out
towards the sides and the Windshield Braces. Don't try to bend the plastic around
the Braces, just glue it to the front edge. When satisfied with the fit, glue all the
edges permanently. When dry, trim off the excess plastic along the Windshield
Braces.
Two 5-1/2"x17" pieces of clear plastic are provided for the side windows. One
piece is to cover all the window area on one side of the airplane with no seams.
Lay the plastic sheets on the fuselage and mark them about 1/8" larger than the
outline of the windows. Cut out and glue on the outside surface of the model.
25.
Preflight
Balance your model at the point indicated on the plan. If it balances further back, add weight to the nose as necessary.
Trying to fly with the C.G. too far back is much more dangerous than the slight increase in wing loading caused by adding
lead to the nose. Balance with an empty fuel tank.
Why Models Must Be Individually Balanced
It is impossible to produce a kit that will automatically have the correct balance
point. Balsa wood varies in weight and it is easily possible for the wood in the tail
of a model this large to be 2 or more ounces lighter or heavier than average. One
ounce of extra weight in the tail has to be countered by about 3 ounces in the
nose. Don't use a lot of finish or excess glue on the tail surfaces. The motor you
choose, what form of muffler is fitted, the size and placement of your radio
equipment, etc. all affect the balance. Don't feel that whatever C.G. the model
builds out to as "good enough". Check carefully and make whatever adjustments
that are required. With the C.G. properly located, the Cub should fly with only
minor trim changes required.