.
h.
For maximum strength, we recommend that you completely cover the balsa
fairings with regular weight fiberglass cloth and slow-drying epoxy glue (applying
it like you did on the inside of the cowl). Lap the cloth past the edges of the
wood, completely around the 3/16" wires, and onto the back side of the fairings.
Sand smooth when dry.
i.
Set the completed landing gear in place on the fuselage. The wires are to be
held in the grooved blocks with the four Nylon Landing Gear Straps provided.
Notice in the next photo that the straps should be installed all the way to the ends
of the grooved blocks, right up against the wire where it exits the block. This is
done to insure that the landing gear cannot shift sideways in a rough landing.
To install the straps, first mark the hole locations.on the grooved blocks. Then use a 1/16" drill bit to drill a pilot hole in the
blocks. Next screw the straps in place using the #4x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws provided.
8.
Stabilizer And Elevators
Carefully cut all of the stabilizer "S" parts and the elevator "E" parts from the 3/8" printed balsa sheet #9. A jig saw works
best for cutting these out. Cut just outside the lines, leaving all of the line on the parts. When fitting into place in the
structure, use a sanding block to bring the edges of the parts to an exact fit.
Cover the plan with waxed paper or plastic wrap. Pin all of the parts to the plan, gluing them to each other in the following
order:
a.
Pin down the 3/8"x1/2" balsa stabilizer trailing edge.
b.
Add the 3/8"x1/2" balsa elevator leading edges and the 3/8" sq. spruce elevator joiner. Be careful not to glue these parts to
the stab trailing edge while gluing them to each other.
c.
Fit in Sl-A and Sl-B.
d.
Add printed parts S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7 and S8.
e.
Fit in E1, E6, and the 3/8" basswood elevator horn insert.
f.
Add printed parts E2, E3, E4, E5, E7, E8, E9 and E10.
g.
Cut to length and glue in all 1/4"x3/8" balsa ribs.
h.
Add 1/8"x1/4" balsa braces where called for on the plan.
i.
When dry, unpin from the plan. Carve and sand all the outside edges round - remember the tail surfaces on the full-size
Cub are constructed out of steel tubing, thus the leading and trailing edges are all perfectly round.
j.
Install the hinges where shown on the plan.
NOTE: Many modelers feel that the tail surfaces are easiest to cover before they are hinged. If you elect to do this, first
test assemble the tail surfaces on their hinges without glue, to insure that a good edge and end match has been obtained
in the sanding operation. Then refer to "Covering and Painting the Framework", section 19, and prepare all the tail
surfaces (except the fin) through the point of covering and applying at least 2 coats of clear dope. After that, epoxy in the
hinges permanently.
9.
Fin And Rudder
The fin and rudder are assembled over the plan in the same manner as the stab and elevators were.
a.
Pin the 3/8"x1/2" balsa Fin Trailing Edge and Rudder Leading Edge to the plan. Do not glue to each other.
b.
Add R1 and R2 printed pieces.
c.
Shape and install the 3/8"x5/8" balsa Fin Leading Edge and Rudder Trailing Edge.