.
When these puddles dry, the large amounts of dope solids in them cause more shrinkage than in the rest of the covering
and a scarred area results. So apply dope very lightly the first time over. The second coat will seal most of the pores of the
Koverall, and from that point running through will not be a serious problem.
You can put anywhere from 3 to 5 total coats of clear dope on the Koverall before going to color. It depends somewhat
upon how heavy a coat you are putting on. Keep the dope thinned out enough to flow on smoothly. Sand well between the
later coats of dope with 220 grit Tri-MIte paper. Don't bear down on the edges of the balsa structure or the fabric may be
cut. Use your own judgement about when you've put on enough coats. The goal is a completely smooth and even base for
the color paint. Keep in mind that weight can build up fast in finishing and restraint must be used in application. Don't try to
completely fill the grain of the fabric like you would on a smaller model. The weave will not be very noticeable as long as
the edges are smooth - it may even look more realistic. Sanding sealer or primer is not necessary or advisable.
Best results can usually be obtained by spraying on the color finish coats. It is also much faster than brushing would be on
this large a model. Reduce the dope for spraying fifty-fifty with Sig Supercoat Thinner. Two coats of your base color should
give good coverage if the surface preparation was sufficient. If any light sanding between base color coats is needed, use
360 Tri-M-Ite or 400 or finer wet paper.
When the base color has dried, mask off the edges of the color trim areas with
"drafting tape" (3M Scotch brand is available at most office and art supply
stores). Completely cover with paper and tape all areas that should remain base
color. Brush or spray the edges of the tape with clear dope. This seals the tape,
preventing leakage of the trim color underneath the tape. Spray on two coats of
trim paint. When dry, carefully remove the tape.
Complete the job by spraying a coat of Lite-Coat clear dope over the entire color
scheme to protect the colors from scuffing and to give the entire model a uniform
gloss.
For best results, it is not a good idea to try to mix different brands of paint. Use
SIG products from the start.
Bottom View Color Scheme
20.
Sanding And Painting The Plastic Parts
CAUTION: Do not try to cover any of the plastic parts with Monokote, Coverite, or other iron-on types of covering material.
The heat can damage the plastic parts.
The cowling, dummy engine, and bungee covers are molded out of ABS plastic. We recommend that they be painted with
Sig Supercoat Dope for a good color match to the rest of the doped model. Hobbypoxy, K & B Superpoxy, and Dulux
Enamel have also been proven compatible with the plastic. Do not use other paints, dopes, or finishes without first testing
on scrap plastic to make certain that they are compatible.
In preparation for painting, the plastic parts should be sanded to remove as much
of the surface gloss on them as possible. Do not use coarse sandpaper which
will cut deeply into the plastic. Deep scratches will often open up wider during
painting. Use 220 grit or finer 3M Tri-M-Ite Fre-Cut Finishing Paper (see Sig
Catalog) or its equivalent.
Color paint can be put directly on the sanded plastic. Primer type coats are not
necessary if a thorough sanding job was done with fine paper. Brush or spray the
color paint onto the plastic parts. Do not apply heavy, wet coats which can cause
an "orange peel" effect. Put on light coats and allow them to dry before applying
a second coat.
The "stand way off scale" detailing of the dummy engines on our prototype models was done by painting with 3 basic
colors:
Silver
for the cylinder heads and the outside of the top shrouds.
Black
for the inside of the top shrouds, the cylinder fins, and for any recessed or shadowy areas.
Steel
for the exhaust pipes and the cylinders. This isn't a standard color, you'll have to mix your own by slowly adding
black paint to silver until you get the shade you want. It shouldn't be too light colored, but must provide adaquate
contrast with the black painted area.
The silver painted areas should be glossy when dry. The black and steel areas should be flat, non-glossy.