Quickie Q2 Lite, Construction Manual, Page: 142 / 299

wrinkles and kinks out. Don't get ahead of yourself on pouring
microfoam slurry on the foam; otherwise, by the time you are ready to
place the UNI over a particular area, you will have a messy, hard
lump of slurry. Work with one piece of cloth at a time, and with
small batches of slurry and epoxy. Also, unrolling the UNI cloth as
needed is advised to reduce the awkwardness of the large pieces.
Scrap UNI can be used to fill in any small spots not covered by the
large pieces of UNI.
..... At the leading edge of the main wing cores, let the UNI cloth
hang vertically down. Trim to within 1" of the tangent point, just
like you did on the ailerons. At the trailing edge, allow the cloth
to drape around the corner and down to the bottom of the shear web so
that the UNI is at 45 degrees to-the T.E. on that face also. Trim the
main wing tip UNI to within t" of the main wing core. Inboard, along
the trim line, also allow the UNI to drape over the edge and down to
the bottom.
..... No overlap is required on the UNI wing skin; just butt fit the
skins together.' You must, however, squeegee the cloth well to avoid
building up excess epoxy in the lamination.
..... The second ply of UNI is also placed at 45 degrees to the T.E.
of the main wing cores but in the other direction from the first ply,
so that the two plies of UNI will have their major fiber orientations
at 90 degrees to each other. The second ply will be easier because it
is being layed up over glass and not the foam. Try to avoid having
the butt joints from the first ply of UNI coincide with the butt
joints from the second ply of UNI. The second ply of UNI is also
draped around the corner and down to the bottom of the shear web, so
that the shear web has two plies of UNI at 45 degrees to the T.E. and
at 90 degrees to each other. Trim all edges like you did on the first
ply.
..... Spar Caps A thru F are laminated in that order, with the widest
cap going on first. To pick up a spar cap and place it on the main
wing, use three people. While one person holds each end of the spar
cap, the third removes any frazzles, being careful not to reduce the
width below what is called out for the particular spar cap. That
third person then stands at BL00 and positions the spar cap in the
proper location (centerline on BL00 and proper distance from the
leading edge of the main wing) while the other two individuals keep
the cloth off of the foam so that it won't stick. When the center
(third) person is ready, one of the individuals holding an end lays
it down spanwise on the main wing in the proper position (in relation
to the main wing L.E.) and removes any wrinkles and kinks. This can
be a slow process, so stay patient. The center individual makes sure
that the spar cap smoothly "turns the corner" at BL00.
..... Squeegee each spar cap from BL00 outboard to keep the UNI fibers
straight. Work out any wrinkles or kinks by pulling carefully on the
fibers.
..... The remaining spar caps are each put on in a similar fashion. We
know you are getting tired, but you must squeegee each cap well to
avoid building up considerable epoxy on the bottom plies. Use extra
epoxy very sparingly on the last spar cap.
..... Locate the places where you bonded in the two SH1's (the 1" x 1"
mild steel plates) and laminate a pad of 20 plies of BID over each
one. The BID cloth should be about 2" x 2" dimensionally.
..... Before quitting, peel ply all joints, and the first two inches
of the main wing L.E.. Also, knife trim the L.E. at the tangent