OcCre ULISES R-C Remolcador 61001 Assembly Instructions Manual Download Page 5

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

ULISES R-C

HULL

PHOTO 1:

Take the three parts that make up the keel

. Join them together and fix the joints with the reinforcements

for the

forward half and reinforcements

for the back half, one on each side. These must be flush with the top of the keel. This work has to be

done on a flat surface.
At the stern glue the reinforcements

making sure that they are flush with the top part and that the slots are aligned with those of the

false keel.
Now glue the frames

into place. Before gluing the frames make sure that they fit correctly into position, fitting firmly in place in

the slots in the false keel. It is important that the frames end up being perfectly perpendicular to the false keel.
Finally, glue the mast reinforcement

onto the bow part of the false keel

. For this operation use white glue (carpenter’s glue).

Set aside the parts

66,

which are alongside these pieces, to use them in subsequent steps.

PHOTO 2:

At the bow, and on both sides of the false keel, glue the reinforcements

into place without them sticking out beyond the

top. Use white glue.

PHOTOS 3 - 5:

Fit the frame beams

into place, each one on the corresponding frame. You will see that the slots in frame

beams

have to end up on the starboard side (the right) of the hull. The engine base

must be attached to the stern area over

the false keel and frame

. Use white glue.

PHOTO 6:

Fit the servo base

in place on the slots in the stern frame beams. The small slot on the bottom of the base must be lined

up towards the bow of the hull.

PHOTOS 7 - 9:

Next glue the lengthways reinforcements

into place: reinforcements

in the forward area,

in the middle

and

at the stern.

PHOTO 10:

At the bow, glue the deck

into place. Make sure that it makes good contact with the top of the frames.

PHOTOS 11 - 13:

Under this deck glue the reinforcements

. These will allow for the lining strakes to be pinned on. At the stern, fit

and glue the deck

into place. Underneath this glue into place the reinforcements

PHOTOS 14 & 15:

To achieve a good contact surface for the lining strakes

, using a sander or a file, sand or file down the edges of

the frames, from bow to stern. Repeat this work on both sides of the hull.
Continue to file down the edge along the length of the hull. Also adjust the profile of the decks so that the bulwark

will be firmly

seated. Also file down the area of the stern, working towards the bow. Brush diluted glue, with 10% water, onto all of the joints to
reinforce the assembly.

PHOTOS 16 & 17:

The lining of the hull must be done in sections. To this end measure up the area covered by one strake

at the

bow, glue the contact areas and pin it in place. You must respect, without covering, the slots at the top of each of the frames, which is
approximately 3 mm. This will allow enough space to fit the bulwarks

PHOTOS 18 - 22:

The end of the first strake must be line dup so that it only covers half the thickness of the frame that it rests on. Here

you can use a fast drying glue to fit it into place, or a pin. The lengths of strake are fitted on, one after the other, occupying the space
set aside for the first section. And so on until the stern part of the hull is covered. Always repeat the same operations on both sides of
the hull in order to maintain the alignment of the whole assembly.

PHOTO 23:

The lining work started at the top of the hull, but you must cover from the bottom to the deck area. All of the strakes must

be joined on either side using glue. Using a brush apply more glue to the inside of the lining as you add strakes. This will ensure that the
hull is well sealed and reinforced.

PHOTO 24:

The union of adjacent strakes should never coincide on the same frame. To ensure that this happens alternate the position

of the union of the strakes on the frames.

PHOTOS 25 & 26:

Check the close up of the stern, which shows how the strakes end just at the middle of the false keel.

PHOTOS 27 - 29:

In order to fill in any gaps that may have been left at the stern, use small wedge shaped pieces of strake. When

finishing off the hull you can also fill in the gaps with pieces of strake sharpened at both ends. The edge of the false keel must be left
free. When you have finished the hull lining process, file down the heads of the pins and sand the whole of the hull until you have
achieved a smooth and uniform surface.

PHOTOS 30 & 31:

Make a hole for the propeller shaft tube. This entry hole is marked on the false keel. This hole must be made right

through to the inside of the hull. You can also wait until you have the tube ready so that the operation can be carried out with more
precision. You must use an 12 mm drill bit and then adjust the diameter of the tube when you have it.

PHOTO 32:

Before varnishing the whole of the interior, use a brush to apply diluted glue, 10% water, onto the whole inside of the hull.

This will seal the hull and help to reinforce it. Once this is dry apply the varnish to the whole of the interior in order to make it waterproof.
You can use either nautical varnish or varnish for wooden floors.

PHOTO 33:

Apply glue to all of frame beams and fit the decks

into place. The decks must make good contact with the beams.

Before fitting deck

remove and set aside the cover

, which is required for later assembly processes.

PHOTOS 34 - 37:

Fit and glue the bulwark

and the supports

to the corresponding slots and then, onto these, glue the deck

. The cover

must be removed and set aside for later processes. Once dry, sand down the side so that the edges of the supports