The free-running version
Fitting the battery, and the final operations (see drawing G)
See drawing G.
Cut the four retaining strips 37b to length, so that they form an accurate frame round the
torch battery 38; glue the strips in place. Cut off the plug from the motor lead, and remove
about 8 mm of insulation. Solder paper clips to the ends to form connecting clips for the torch
battery. One of the connecting leads is cut through, and the switch 40 fitted into it. Now
check that the system operates correctly. If the motor runs the wrong way, reverse the
connecting clips on the torch battery. It is a good idea to wrap a strip of red insulating tape
round the positive lead (+).
For free-running, the rudder has to be pre-set. To do this, loosen the allen head screw 24
and place the boat on the workbench. Press down on the boat, and at the same time press
tiller down and tighten the allen head screw. The rudder will now be relatively difficult to
move, and can be set to any position. The model is now ready to run.
The radio-controlled version
Installation of the R/C system and battery (See drawing A)
Place your electronic speed control 42 with some double adhesive tape besides the servo.
Most speed controls do not use a separate battery anymore. So battery 50 will not be
needed anymore. Switch 46 is mostly fixed directly to the speed control.
Glue retaining strip 37a on top
(see drawing of R/C installation plate for position.
Bend steering pushrod 47 to shape, and connect it to the servo output arm and the tiller. Fit
the collar 48, and set the servo to neutral. Set the rudder for "straight ahead", and tighten the
cheesehead screw 48a in the collar. Fit the receiver 49 and connect up the R/C system.
Connect the drive battery 51 and the motor 2 to the speed control 42. Make up the aerial 52
if needed. Modern 2.4 GHz radios do not need an aerial anymore.
To avoid damage to eyes, bend the upper end of the aerial into a square or round loop. Pass
the aerial through the hole in the deckand bend the bottom end over to form the aerial base,
as shown in drawing A. Solder socket 52 to the end, and epoxy the aerial base to the support
16. Cut the receiver aerial down to a length of 15 cm. and solder plug 52b onto the end.
Insert the plug into the socket.
The model is now finished.
Checking the working functions
Place the boat in its stand and switch on the R/C system. Stand behind your boat, and check
the steering as follows: with the rudder stick and trim lever on the transmitter at neutral, the
rudder should point dead straight ahead. If necessary, adjust the pushrod to correct. Switch
the motor on and check that the propeller rotates in the correct direction. Hold your hand
behind the propeller: the propeller is rotating in the correct sense if you feel an airflow from it.
If this is not the case, the connecting leads on the motor have to be reversed. Once these
checks have been carried out, you are ready for the boat's maiden voyage.
Have lots of fun building and operating your "Katja".
