Notes on the wooden parts
The few wooden parts which are required to built this model should be given two or three
coats of sanding sealer before fitting. Rub down with fine sandpaper after each coat.
Roughen up the gluing surfaces thoroughly, to ensure a firm bond.
The hull
Installation of the drive system (see drawing A)
The gluing flange running round the trimmed hull 1 is filed and sanded until it is flat. Drill the
4 mm Ø holes where marked in the shaft fairing for the stern tube, and the stern for the
rudder bush. Before the motor 2 can be installed, it must be suppressed. Solder the
condenser 3 as a bridge between the two terminals. File two clean patches on the motor
casing, and solder the remaining two condensers 4 in place, one pin of each to one terminal,
the other to the casing. See sketch A1. Finally solder motor lead 5 to the terminals. Cut out
the motor mount 6 and its two longitudinal supports and the rudder bush support 16 from the
laser sheet by cutting the bars with a modellers knife. Glue the supports to the motor mount.
Now mount the suppressed motor using screws 7 and washers 8. Slide washer 11 on to the
shaft 9 with propeller 12, and slide it into the stern tube 10 by adding some oil to the bushes.
Slide the assembled stern tube into the hull from the outside through the hole in the shaft
fairing, leaving exactly 45mm projecting out of the hull (measured minus the propeller). See
sketch A2. Fit collar 13 onto the shaft, and fit grub screw 13a into it. Check that the shaft can
still rotate freely in the stern tube.
Now slip the coupling sleeve 14 onto the motor shaft and the propeller shaft. There should be
10 mm of this length on each shaft end.
Align the entire drive system again, and spot-glue the stern tube and the motor mount in
place, using instant glue (cyano-acrylate). Parts 6 and 10 are now firmly fixed in the hull with
a generous fillet of UHU acrylit. The stern tube support 15 is made up from two 1 mm thick
strips of scrap ABS, as shown on the plan (drawing H). Trim it to fit according to drawing A2,
and glue it in place.
Rudder installation
Cut out the rudder support 16 from the laser sheet, and clean up the edges. Now fit the
rudder bush 17 from the underside, leaving the flange on the outside. Apply UHU acrylit to
the bush 17 from the inside, and slide support 16 onto it, checking that the ends come to rest
on the hull floor. Invert the hull and place it on the workbench. Insert the rudder shaft 18 and
set the rudder exactly vertical, with the blade aligned "straight ahead". Support the rudder
blade with scrap strips of plastic until the glue has set.
Pull out the rudder again. Apply a fillet of UHU acrylit where the ends of the support meet the
hull, and where the rudder bush passes through the support. File a small flat on the rudder
shaft with a flat file, as shown in drawing A3, to provide a key for the retaining screw 24. Fit
washer 19 an O-ring 20 onto the shaft, and fit the rudder shaft into the bush again. Fit
washer 21 onto the projecting shaft end inside the hull. Fit collar 23 into the tiller 22 and
screw in the allen-head screw 24. The completed tiller is now fitted onto the shaft end and
aligned so that the tiller is exactly at 90° to the boat's centreline with the rudder in the exact
"straight ahead" position. Press the rudder upwards slightly from the bottom, and tighten the
allen-head screw.
The deck - drawing D
Cut out the deck 27 and clean up the edge to be glued, so that it fits neatly on the hull with
no gaps.
As shown in drawing B, separate the support flange 25 from the cabin floor 30, and sand the
cut edge smooth. Cut out parts a and b as shown in drawing C, slide the halves of the
support flange together, and glue them together with the prepared reinforcement strip 26.
The finished support flange is fitted into the deck from the underside, with the rounded inner
