edge c facing upwards. Please refer to drawing A, section d-e and drawing C here. Using
instant glue, stick edges f-f and g-g of the support flange 25 to the deck. The cabin floor 30 is
extended by adding parts 28, 29, 31 and 32, as shown in the drawing E. Use instant glue for
all joints here. The completed cabin floor is now slid into the deck from behind, until it rests
on part 25. It should not be too tight a fit. If necessary, sand back projecting areas until the
cabin floor fits perfectly. Remove the cabin floor.
Installation of the R/C plate
Cut out the R/C installation plate 41 from the laser sheet. Please note that the placing of the
R/C installation parts refer to the radio control, which we did install. If you use another radio,
measures may be different and need to be corrected. Cut out 4 servo support halves from
the laser sheet and glue 2 pcs together and fit them vertically into the cutouts of the plate 41.
Place your servo 44 onto the supports and drill the holes for fixing the servo. So the servo is
placed vertical in contrast to drawing A. You will need to place the servo horicontal, if it is
bigger. Please check this before final installation. Varnish the installation plate before placing
it in the hull and weight it down with the drive battery 51, which is fitted between the motor
mount 6 and retaining strip 37a. The R/C plate can now be glued with UHU acrylit to the hull
floor.
Joining the hull and deck
Prepare a number of wooden clothes pegs as follows: saw off the tips until the pegs' jaws
meet flush. This enables them to grip the narrow gluing flange of hull and deck without
slipping off. Refer to drawing D here.
Place the hull and deck together, align them carefully, and check the fit. Now open again,
give UHU allplast glue to the gluing flange and hold them together with the clothes pegs.
Painting, transfers
The next stage is to paint the model; the cabin floor is painted separately.
Ghiant RC color spray paints are ideal for this model. Remove traces of grease from the
plastic by washing the whole surface of the boat with white spirit.
Die-cut red masking pieces are supplied for the window panes and the sun roofs. When
applying these masks, take care that their edges line up with the window outlines. Press the
edges down well.
The kit box illustration shows a colour scheme which you might like to follow. If you wish to
apply a multi-colour scheme you will need to mask out the different areas, using sellotape or
masking tape. Masking tape has the advantage that it is more flexible, and can be eased
round compound curves. As soon as the paint is touch-dry, remove the masking tape and
die-cut masks - on no account wait until the paint is completely dry. When applying the self-
adhesive transfers 53, take care to lay them down smoothly, avoiding creases. Any air
bubbles trapped under the transfers can be removed by rubbing down with a soft cloth.
Fittings
At the points on the deck where cleats, horns and the flagstock base are to be glued, you will
need to scratch away the paint, otherwise the glue will not stick. Glue the four belaying cleats
33 to the deck where shown in the exploded drawing. Drill two 2 mm Ø holes in the deck,
and glue the horns 34 into them. The base of the flagstock 35 is glued to the aft end of the
deck, offset to one side. Bear in mind that the cabin floor must be able to slide out towards
the stern with the flagstick in place. Tie the flag 36 to the flagstick and plug the flagstick into
the brass base.
Note:
Your model is now complete. At this point you need to decide whether the model is to
be free-running, or fitted with a radio-control system. For a free-running model you will need
parts 37b-40, with parts 41-52 not needed. For the radio-controlled version, parts 37b-40 are
not required.
