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2. Become familiar with starting your engine, and break it in
before going for your first flight. Be sure the engine will stop
when the trim lever is pulled all the way back.
3. Assemble a simple flight kit (a shoe box is fine to start with)
which should include a starting battery and glo-plug clip
(or ni-starter), “chicken stick” for flipping the prop, fuel and a
means of filling the tank, a couple of small screwdrivers, #64
rubber bands, spare prop and glo-plug, 6” adjustable wrench,
and a pair of needle nose pliers. In addition to tools, you
should also take along some paper towels and spray window
cleaner to remove fuel residue after each flight.
4. When you load up to go to the flying field be sure that the
batteries have charged for at least 14 hours, and that you have
your fuselage, wing, transmitter, and flight box. And, most
important, you have your AMA license.
5. Range check the radio! See page 19.
USING RUBBER BANDS
The rule of thumb is to use two #64 rubber bands per pound
of model weight. If your model weighs in at 6 pounds, you
need 12 rubber bands. It doesn’t matter too much how many
you run straight across the wing or how many are criss-
crossed, so long as the last two are criss-crossed. This trick
stops the other bands from popping off. Do not use oily rubber
bands for more than a few flying sessions. Check each rubber
band before using it; discard any that have cracks. Rubber
bands can be conditioned by storing the oily ones in a zip-top
storage bag partially filled with talcum powder or corn starch.
Both products will absorb the oil.
TAXIING
Start the engine and set the throttle trim for a slow, steady idle.
Have your instructor or a helper hold the plane while you work
the controls. Upon release, advance the throttle slightly to start
rolling, then back-off the power to prevent going too fast and
possibly taking off. Stand behind the plane as it taxies away
from you and note the direction it turns as you move the rudder
control. One thing to keep in mind with R/C models (whether it
be cars, boats, or planes) is that the steering controls may
seem to “reverse” when the model is moving toward you. For
example, if you are flying toward yourself, and you give a right
control input (ailerons or rudder), the model will move off to
your left. The fact of the matter is of course, that the controls
are not reversed and the aircraft did actually enter a right turn.
The plane does move off to your left from your vantage point,
but if you imagined yourself in the cockpit you would realize
the plane turned to the right as commanded. All it takes is a
little practice to maintain proper orientation of your aircraft, but
that’s why we recommend finding an instructor.
When you feel comfortable, advance the throttle a little while
standing behind the plane to get the feel of a takeoff roll, but
pull back on the power before the model lifts off. Try this
several times, adding a little more power each time. If the
plane starts to veer off, immediately cut the power to prevent
a mishap.
Although many R/C pilots have taught themselves to fly, we
strongly recommend that you find an instructor to help get you
started. Although trainer airplanes offer the greatest
opportunity of success for the self-taught, there is a high
probability that you will crash your airplane on the first flight.
Protect your investment of time and money—obtain the
assistance of an experienced R/C pilot.
TAKEOFF
Your first flights should be made in little or no wind. If you have
dual rates on your transmitter, set the switches to “low rate” for
takeoff. Taxi into position, pointing directly into the wind.
Although this model has good low speed characteristics, you
should always build up as much speed as your runway will
permit before lifting off, as this will give you a safety margin in
case of a “flame-out.” Advance the throttle smoothly to the
wide-open setting. When the plane has sufficient flying speed
(you won’t know until you try), lift off by smoothly applying a
little up elevator (don’t force it off into a steep climb!), and
climb out
gradually
, trying to keep it straight and the wings
level. Climb to about 100 feet before starting a VERY gentle
turn by moving the aileron stick. Apply a little more back
pressure on the elevator stick as the model turns. Stop the turn
by moving the aileron stick in the opposite direction until the
wings are level, then return the stick to the neutral position.
Pull the power back to 1/2 throttle.
FLYING
We recommend that you take it easy with your model for the
first several flights and gradually “get acquainted” with the
plane as your engine becomes fully broken-in. Trainers are
designed to fly level with neutral elevator trim at approximately
1/3 - 1/2 throttle — this is the best speed for learning to fly. On
later flights, if you want your model to maintain level flight at
full throttle, you will need to give it a little down trim.
Your first flights should consist of mostly straight and level
flight with gentle turns to keep the model over the field. These
flights will give you practice at coordinating your control inputs
and maintaining the proper orientation of the airplane. As
mentioned earlier, turns are accomplished by banking the
aircraft with the ailerons (rudder will accomplish this on a
3-channel airplane) then gently adding some back stick (up
elevator). Enough back stick should be held in to keep the
aircraft at a constant altitude. To stop turning, apply opposite
aileron (or rudder) to level the wings, then release the sticks.
There is a memory aid that may help keep you out of trouble
when the plane is flying toward you — “put the stick under the
low wing.” In other words, move the stick in the direction of the
low wing to raise that wing. When you are comfortable flying
the aircraft, you can practice using the rudder along with the
ailerons to “coordinate” the turns — usually, a small amount of
rudder applied in the direction of the turn will keep the tail
following in the exact same track as the nose.
The most common mistake when learning to fly is “over
control.” Think of
pressure
instead of large movements of the
control sticks. Remember, most trainers will recover from
almost any over control situation (given enough altitude) if you
simply let go of the sticks.
