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WAECO USA, Inc.
Tel. (860) 664-4911 • Fax. (860) 664-4912 • www.waecousa.com
Contents, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.
OPERATION OF SYSTEM
START UP
Turn the thermostatic control clockwise to about #2 or #3, (#1 on the
thermostatic control is the warmest setting.....#7 is the coldest)
The ColdMachine system will now start. Within a few minutes, the
evaporator will begin to frost (note that a PowerPlate will take much
longer before frost is visible on the surface). The system will operate
continuously until the box cabinet and contents have been brought to the
selected temperature. The system will then cycle off, and thereafter cycle
on and off—maintaining proper temperature (similar to a home
refrigerator).
AC/DC OPERATION
The ColdMachine will also operate automatically at dockside with the
addition of a battery charger. We recommend a quality MARINE battery
charger (not an automotive charger) of sufficient size to handle your
ColdMachine along with the other onboard DC loads (such as lights,
stereo and electronics).
For the ColdMachine, figure approximately 5 amps when running. The
average draw, as the ColdMachine cycles on and off, is 1.8 to 2.4 amps
for most 4 to 8 cubic foot iceboxes with average (3 inch plus) rigid
polyurethane foam insulation.
MAINTENANCE
Regular or seasonal maintenance is normally not needed, nor is
maintenance required for winter storage or decommissioning. However,
you should wash the evaporator occasionally and again before winter
storage (use a mild detergent such as
Joy or Ivory). In addition, the air
condenser (the radiator-like object in the condensing unit) can get
clogged with dirt and should be carefully vacuumed seasonally with a
soft brush attachment. Be careful not to bend the cooling fins. If a water-
cooled option kit is installed, the water circuit must be drained or filled
with anti-freeze solution.
DEFROSTING
Defrost your refrigerator when frost gets over 1/4” thick. This should not
occur in less than a month or so. Excessively fast or thick frost formation
is an indication of moist, outside air entering through a poorly-sealed lid,
doors or liner joints. These conditions must be eliminated for proper
performance.
The best way to defrost is to turn the power off. Open the icebox lid or
door and allow sufficient time for the freezer unit to defrost naturally.
Never use an icepick, knife or other metal object—you could pierce the
refrigerant coils.
BATTERY CARE
Batteries are one of the most neglected and abused items on boats.
Unlike automobiles, boat engines run slowly and infrequently. The
batteries tend to be buried in the bilge, are damp, dirty and chronically
undercharged. Boat wiring is subject to corrosion at various connections,
which creates voltage drops as we add more electrical devices each
season. As these electrical loads grow, it becomes even more important
that you keep your battery and charging system at top efficiency.
In addition, batteries can be deceptive. They may look good and read
normal voltage, but may have deteriorated internally and be unable to
deliver adequate power for more than short periods of time.
WET TYPE BATTERIES
Check you batteries at least every month with a hydrometer
(inexpensive and available from automotive supply stores). The readings
of each cell should be approximately the same. If one reading is lower
than the other, it indicates a defective battery. Use distilled water only.
EQUALIZING (WET TYPE BATTERIES ONLY)
During periodic equalizing, the battery voltage can exceed 15 or even 16
volts.
To prevent possible damage to your unit, shut the
Adler/Barbour system off before starting the equalizing
process.
ALL BATTERIES
Check your batteries seasonally with a “battery load tester” (obtain from
a boatyard or mechanic). This tests the battery’s condition and capacity
under a heavy actual load.
If your batteries do not pass these test,
replace them. You are just
wasting valuable fuel, engine hours and time in trying to charge them.
Observing the following points can add to the dependability and
operational life of your battery:
• Keep the tops of the batteries clean and dry. A damp battery can lose
20% of its charge in a day.
• Keep the battery post clamps tight, clean and free from corrosion.