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WAECO USA, Inc.
15
MOUNTING THE POWERPLATE
1. Plan the installation to position the PowerPlate in the
preferred orientation: on a vertical wall of the refriger-
ator (or freezer) cabinet with the label on top. In this
position, the PowerPlate will perform at maximum
efficiency. If this is not possible, it may be installed in
any spatial orientation; but a small reduction of
efficiency may result.
2. Position the PowerPlate high in the compartment—
within 2 inches of the top for best results.
3. Be sure to leave room for mating and tightening the
couplings that connect the PowerPlate to the tube set.
4. Mark and drill four (4) mounting holes using a 9/64”
drill and a tube exit hole using a 1-1/2” hole saw.
5. Be sure to use the supplied four (4) plastic spacers to
ensure that the PowerPlate is spaced away from the
cabinet wall to permit air circulation behind it for best
efficiency. Do not mount the PowerPlate flush against
the wall as a major loss of performance will result.
POWER PLATE TUBE SET
Drill a 1-1/2” diameter hole through the cabinet wall for
the tube set. Unroll the tube set. Feed the end with the
couplings into the box. Do not remove the protective caps
yet.
Position the insulating sleeving
OUTSIDE
(not inside) the
refrigerated space. The end of the sleeve should butt
against the outside wall of the box (you will be sealing
this joint later with mastic putty included in your kit.)
Route the service port coupling ends of the tube set
through the boat to the condensing unit. Do not remove
the protective caps yet.
Before you connect the refrigerant couplings to the
power plate, refer back to the section entitled
“Refrigerant Couplings” for additional information. Have
the required 5/8 and 3/4 wrenches at hand now. Do not
allow any dirt, sawdust, foam insulation dust, etc., to get
into couplings ends as this will seriously damage the
system.
These couplings are different from the couplings that join
the tube set to the condensing unit. The small couplings
are screwed, o-ringed, and
LocTite-sealed to the bases
that are in-turn soldered to the copper tubes. Therefore,
it is most important that you do not unscrew the small
couplings from their bases.
Put your wrenches on the
coupling bodies only!
SMALL COUPLING TORQUE REQUIRED
12–15 foot pounds (less than the large couplings)
CONNECTING THE PLATE COUPLINGS
(from tube set to
PowerPlate)
1. Remove the protective caps of one mating pair of the
couplings inside the box (start with
either pair). Screw the
couplings halves together until they bottom metal-to-metal
with very firm pressure (about 4 turns) using two wrenches:
5/8” and 3/4”.
2. Mark the coupling halves. Using your two wrenches (do not
use pliers, visegrips, etc) tighten couplings an additional one
flat (1/6 turn). This should require considerable wrench
torque. If it did not, you did not “bottom” the couplings first.
3. Repeat the above for the other pair of coupling halves.
IMPORTANT:
Save all coupling protective caps. Put them in a
marked container and keep aboard. If a future service procedure
requires that any coupling pair be disconnected, these caps must
be re-installed immediately to keep out dirt.
To connect the couplings to condensing unit, please refer to
section entitled “Refrigerant Couplings.” After completing this
section, seal the black rubber insulating sleeve to the outside of
the refrigerated box airtight, using
Mortite or other (removable-
type) caulking sealant. All three (3) feet of sleeve must be
outside the box. This sleeve may butt against the outer wall or
the inner liner.
Excess tubing: Form a coil about 18” in diameter, (taking care not
to deform the tubes) in the horizontal orientation if possible, and
secure tightly to the bulkheads, etc. using plastic wire straps.
Protect tubing from chafe and vibration with soft sleeving as
necessary.
