background image

Before making the jaws and installing the vise, you will 
need to consider the following:

• Which end of the workbench: generally, a right-

handed woodworker will install the front vise on 
the left-hand end of the workbench (as shown in 
the diagrams in these instructions). This keeps the 
mechanism out of the way when planing long boards 
clamped against the front of the workbench (i.e., 
when jointing an edge). A left-handed user would 
usually want the front vise on the right-hand end of 
the workbench.

•  Size of the front jaws: the mechanism of the vise has 

been designed around a nominal jaw width of 18

1

/

2

"

Wider is possible if required; however, a jaw wider 
than 24

"

 will begin to put higher-than-anticipated 

side loads on the vise.

•  Dog holes: the front jaw should be thick enough to 

allow for dog holes so that the vise can be used to 
clamp parts to the top of the workbench. Ideally, 
these holes should align to the dog-hole matrix in the 
workbench top. The holes also need to be located so 
that they do not interfere with holes for the various 
rods and screws the mechanism will require (see 

Figure 4

).

•  Jaw thickness: this vise was designed around a 1

3

/

4

"

 

thick front jaw and a 2

"

 thick apron. A 1

3

/

4

"

 thick 

front jaw in a suitable hardwood will give sufficient 
strength and can easily accommodate 

3

/

4

"

 diameter 

dog holes. 

•  Relative mechanism position: generally, it is desirable to 

offset the mechanism in the jaw to give a larger clear space 
on one side of the mechanism for through clamping.

Depending on the overall workbench design, there may be 
other critical elements to consider. Judicious planning will 
go a long way towards making the installation go smoothly.   

Preparing the Blank for your Front Jaw

The design of your front jaw is heavily dependent on 
the overall design of your workbench. 

Figure 3

 shows a 

typical 18

"

 wide front jaw design with three dog holes. 

The height of the jaw needs to be at least 3

"

 greater than 

the thickness of your workbench top. (

Do not

 drill the 

holes for the main screw, guide rods or quick-release 
shaft at this time.)

...

Tip:

 Leave a bit of material on the top of the jaw, 

then plane it fl ush with the workbench top 

after

 

installation; 

1

/

32

" should be enough (e.g., if your 

workbench is 2" thick, you would add 2

1

/

32

" to all the 

vertical dimensions shown in 

Figure 3

). 

Figure 3: Typical front jaw design.

3

Veritas

®

 Quick-Release Front Vise

Bench Thickness

3

/

4

"

7

/

8

"

5

"

5

"

1

1

/

8

"

4

1

/

4

"

2

1

/

2

"

Ø 1

1

/

2

"

 THRU

Ø 

3

/

4

"

 THRU

Ø 

7

/

32

"

 × 1

1

/

4

"

 DEEP

Ø 1

"

 THRU

1

13

/

16

"

1

11

/

16

"

4

1

/

4

"

18

Содержание 05G34.01

Страница 1: ...U S Des Pat No D673 830 05G34 01 Quick Release Front Vise ...

Страница 2: ...h ease of installation as a primary requirement the instructions offer critical information to facilitate the task These instructions assume the workbench has a 2 thick apron Please refer to Appendix 1 for installation on a workbench with no apron These instructions show an installation on the left end of the workbench which would be typical for a right handed woodworker Assuming a 13 4 thick fron...

Страница 3: ... around a 13 4 thick front jaw and a 2 thick apron A 13 4 thick front jaw in a suitable hardwood will give sufficient strength and can easily accommodate 3 4 diameter dog holes Relative mechanism position generally it is desirable to offset the mechanism in the jaw to give a larger clear space on one side of the mechanism for through clamping Depending on the overall workbench design there may be ...

Страница 4: ...are installing a softwood jaw Tip It may be easier to drill the holes for the mounting screws later in the installation process Note A drill press is recommended for boring these holes to ensure they are bored square to the jaw face Tip When drilling the holes for the main screw guiderods etc donotrotateorturntheworkpiece on the drill press table See Figure 5 Instead slide the workpiece over If yo...

Страница 5: ...guide rod screws and carefully pull the front plate off The fit between guide rods and front plate is tight you may need to progressively tap each side until these come apart Avoid skewing the front plate in relation to the guide rods Fromthispointon theinstallationofthevisemechanism will be much easier if the workbench is flipped upside down Alternatively if your workbench top is easily removable...

Страница 6: ...oid damaging the vise mechanism Install all four washers and 3 8 lag screws tighten all the lag screws Figure 10 Installing the bushings washers and lag screws Reinstall the front plate and all the parts shown in Figure 7 Do not use a thread locking compound when reassembling the vise as this will make it near impossible to remove the screws should the need arise Remove the tape across the half nu...

Страница 7: ...main screw Figure 14 Releasing the half nut Caution Do not release the half nut when the vise is loaded Disengaging a loaded vise will result in sudden release of clamping pressure which can lead to damage of the vise and workpiece as well as injury to the user To re engage the half nut simply flip the lever back to horizontal If the threads in the half nut are not aligned with those on the main s...

Страница 8: ...s been installed Attach the rear jaw to the workbench with lag screws or other attachment method Clamp the drilled front jaw in place as shown in Figure 6 and follow the rest of the instructions for installing the vise mechanism as though the workbench had an apron Figure 17 Assembly with rear jaw Appendix 2 Cam Orientation If for some reason the vise mechanism is disassembled beyond the point des...

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