the now-tapped holes. They should work smoothly,
without binding. Now use a 3/16" dia. bit and your
power drill to open up the two holes in the trailing
edge of the lower wing. This allows clearence for the
two nylon wing hold-down bolts. Use a razor blade to
trim the length of these bolts to 3/4".
6. From your kit box, locate the two remaining lengths
of tapered trailing edge/aileron stock. Note on the
cross section, shown at the lower left corner of Plan
Sheet 3, that the right and left ailerons need to be
beveled, top and bottom of the hinge line, to
facilitate up and down movement. First carefullycut
the ailerons to length, with about 1/32" clearence bet-
ween the hardwood end of the center section and
the aileron at the W-15 location. Use a small hobby
plane and sanding block to bevel the leading edges
of each aileron, as shown. Next, locate, mark and
drill the 1/8" dia. hole in the inboard leading edge of
each aileron that will engage the exposed torque rod
ends. From the parts bag, locate the two 1/8" O.D. x
7/8" brass tubes. Rough-up their outer surfaces and
insert them into these holes to a depth of about 1".
Now use your MotoTool or X-acto knife to make a
groove from these holes, inboard to the ends of the
ailerons. These grooves will hold the torque rod
arms and allow the ailerons to fit up to the wing's
trailing edges. Test fit each aileron forcorrect fit and
make any necessary adjustments.
7. Use a soft pencil to mark the location of each of the
five (per side) aileron/wing hinges. Use a #11 X-acto
blade to carefully and accurately slot the wing and
its corresponding aileron for the nylon hinges.
NOTE: The hinge line must line up with the torque
rod arm for free, non-binding movement.
8. Temporarily mount the ailerons in place, hinged, to
the lower wing. Sand the entire structure to final
shape. Remove the ailerons and hinges and set them
aside for final attachment after covering.
9. Using the plans and a soft pencil, carefully mark the
positions of each of the four required 1/8" holes on
the bottom sheeting of the top wing. These holes are
required to engage and mount the top wing to the
cabane strut assemblies.
Now bolt the lower wing to the fuselage and slip the
left and right cabane strutwire assemblies intotheir
tubes—use tape to retain these temporarily. Gently
place the top wing onto the top of the cabane stubs,
centering it as close as possible to the four pencil
marks just made. The pencil marks may not line-up
exactly, just do your best to get the stubs and marks
as close as possible to one another.
Once the wing is in this position, you have some
observations to make. First, when viewed from the
top, the leading edges of both upperand lowerwings
should be parallel. If not, shift the top wing slightly
to achieve this condition. Next, view the model from
the front to determine that the top wing is centered
(disregard any wing low condition for now) and ad-
just as needed to achieve this condition.
The last observation to make is the relationship of
the tops of the wire cabane stubs to the 1/2" x 5/8'' x
1-1/2" hardwood blocks, just above them. You want to
be sure that the hole locations will be approximately
those shown on the plans and cross sections. If
some bending adjustments in one or more of the
cabane strut arms needs to be made, now is the
time.
Once all of the fore-going criteria has been met,
uniformly press the top wing to the wire stub ends
with the palm of your hand, to impress their loca-
tions into the balsa sheeting. Remove the upper
wing, turn it over and use your power drill and a 1/8"
dia. bit to drill the four holes through the bottom of
the wing panels and each of the blocks, at right
angles. Re-fit the wing in place to the cabane struts.
Use the drill and 1/8" bit to make adjustments needed
to allow the wing to accept the stubs. Take another
look at the airframe to make sure everything is sit-
ting squarely. Once you're satisfied, remove the top
wing and remove the lower wing from the fuselage.
10. Lay the top wing upside down on your work surface
and then mount the fuselage and cabane struts into
the just-drilled holes. Locate the four required re-
taining straps and eight #2 x 3/8" wood screws. As
shown on the plans, the balsa sheeting immediately
beneath these straps and screws must be removed.
Do this now with a #11 X-acto knife. Using the straps
as a guide, mark the location of each of the screw
holes. Drill eight 1/16" dia. "guide holes" for the
screws. Use a screwdriver to now mount each of the
four straps in place—don't over-tighten.
With this hardware in its location established, the
top wing can now be removed from the cabane
struts. The rest of the 3/32" balsa sheeting can be fit-
ted and glued in place on the top, over the hardwood
blocks. The wing should now be final-sanded
preparatory to covering. Finally, using the instruc-
tions in FINAL ASSEMBLY step #2, mount the four
nylon mini-horns in place to the W-3P ribs, making
sure the ends of these protrude downwards, toward
the bottom wing location—see cross section at bot-
tom left of Plan Sheet 5.
11. A 1/16" x 1/2" x 12" ply strip is provided for the
fuselage frame "corner caps". These are shown on
the top and bottom views of the fuselage and are cut
to fit over each exposed spruce framework joint. The
pattern drawing for these parts appears at the far
right-hand side of Plan Sheet 2. Use the pattern and a
pair of shears to make these caps. These are now
carefully glued in place as shown. Use light sand-
paper to smooth, prior to painting.
12. Using the locations shown on the plans, make the re-
quired hinge slots in the stabilizer and elevatorwith
your #11 X-acto knife. Temporarily install the
elevators in place to the stabilizer with a couple of
hinges. Now make the two required hinge slots in
the fin and rudder. As the plans show, a semi-
circular opening, at the lower leading edge of the
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