tips in place and the center S-2 as well; pin. From the
1/4" x 1/2" balsa stock provided, cut, fit and glue in
place the two leading edges and the trailing edge.
Using the same material, cut and glue in place the
"cap" in front of S-2, thus completing the stab
outline.
2 . Cut,fitcarefullyandgluethe 1/4 "sq.balsaribs(three
per side) in place. Use short lengths of 1/4" x 1/2"
stock to make the fillets—note grain direction.
3 . From the 1/4 " x 2-3/4" balsa stock provided, measure
and cut the two elevators. Notch them as shown to
accept the 1/4 " dia. dowel elevator joiner. With the
stab still in position on the work surface, pin the
elevator halves in place. Protect the trailing edge of
the stab with a strip of waxed paper and epoxy the
dowel joiner in place in the notches—allow to set
completely.
4 . Remove the stab and elevators from the plans. Build
the fin next in the same manner using the R-1 and R-2
die-cut pieces with 1/4" sq. and 1/4" x 1/2" balsa
frames shown. Cut the rudder to shape from the re-
mainder of the 1/4" x 2-3/4" balsa stock used for the
elevators. Position the rudder in place to the back of
the fin and glue R-3 in place to the leading edge of
the rudder. Remove the parts from your building
board.
5. Using the 3/32" x 1/4" balsa provided, cap strip both
sides of the fin and stab assemblies as shown on the
plans. Be sure, when capping the lower edge of the
fin, to leave a distance of 3/32" from the bottom to
allow the fin to fit into the slot between the two top
S-3 caps. Glue the two S-3 caps to the upper surface
of S-2, leaving a 1/4" gap at the centerline for the fin.
Test-fit the fin in place on top of the stab. With the fin
still in place, cut, fit and glue the forward 3/32" x 1/4"
cap strip in place forward of the fin. Remove the fin.
6 . The elevators, stab, fin and rudder are now final-
sanded to shape. Start by using masking tape to
mount the elevators to the stab. Use a sanding block
to go over all of the outside surfaces to carefully
match them. Lay the stab on a flat working surface,
masking tape down, and use the sanding block to
sand it flat. Use the sanding block to taper the
elevators as shown on one side. Tape the
stab/elevator hinge line, turn the stab over, remove
the tape from this side, and repeat the process. The
same method is used for the fin and rudder. Once
complete, use sandpaper to round the leading
edges. Set these parts aside for covering and
assembly to the fuselage.
fuselage can only be ruined in one way; building it crook-
ed. This can be done by not making the fuselage side
frames identical and/or mis-sizing the top and bottom
cross braces. Another common error is to make im-
proper joints. The Elder Biplane relies a great deal on the
strength of its frame—take the time to make each and
every joint required, fit as precisely as possible. Also
note that the uprights and cross braces are a mix of both
spruce and balsa. These are notated.
Join Plan Sheets 1 and 2 at the center lines provided. As
shown, lay your straight edge along the top longeron to
line-up the two drawings. Carefully tape the plans
together. Now cut-out the Top View section and again
using your straight edge, placed along the center line of
both drawings, carefully tape in place. Since the side
frames will be built directly over the plans, cover and pro-
tect them with either MonoKote backing or clear food
wrap.
1. Locate and remove both F-5 die-cut fuselage
doublers from their sheet. Pin or hold these parts
together, aligning carefully, and use your sanding
block to "match" their outer edges exactly. Pin one
of the F-5's directly over it's location on the plan.
Measure, cut and pin in place the upper 1/4" x 1/2"
balsa sub-longeron which fits between the F-6 and
F-11 locations and directly beneath the top spruce
longeron.
2. Note that the top 1/4"sq. spruce longeron is actually
three separate lengths. There are two required gaps
of 5/8" each to fit the slotted cabane trunnion blocks.
Carefully cut these three lengths of spruce and glue
them in place, overthe plan, to the top surface of the
1/4" x 1/2" sub-longeron. Use crossed pins to ac-
curately secure the rear end of this longeron to your
work surface. Measure, cut and glue the bottom 1/4"
sq. spruce longeron in place to the bottom of F-5
(note the angled cut at the bottom, front end of this
longeron to accomodate the wing saddle). Again
secure the rear end of this longeron to your work sur-
face with crossed pins.
3. Cut, fit and glue in place the six (6) 1/4" x 1/2" balsa
uprights, shown from A-A through C-C.
4. With the top and bottom spruce longerons securely
and accurately positioned overthe plans, cut, fitand
glue in place the six (6) 1/4"sq. spruce uprights, star-
ting at the rearmost tailpost and working forward.
This completes the first fuselage side frame.
Remove it from yourwork surface and use a sanding
block to lightly sand each side of it smooth.
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
Before starting construction, study the plans, cross sec-
tions and illustrations to familiarize yourself with how
the fuselage is assembled. Note that it really is nothing
more than a basic "box" fuselage with semi-formers on
the top and in the nose area to create the required round-
ed look. This simple and effective way of making a
5. Reposition the frame onto your work surface and, as
shown, cover it with protective backing from
MonoKote or food wrap. The second, identical
fuselage frame is now built directly over the bottom
one. Again, take your time and carefully build this
second frame exactly like its mate.
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