Locate the two nylon horns provided for the elevator and
rudder. Mark the locations of these on the rudder and
elevator and drill the two requird holes for each. Mount
the horns. Thread two clevises onto each end of each
pushrods and attach the clevises to the nylon horns.
Now test the movement and action of the rudder and
elevator by moving the pushrods by hand. It is essential
that the movement be smooth, non-binding but not slop-
py. Once you are satisfied, make the required "Z"-bends
at the servo-end of the pushrods and make the connec-
tion to the rudder and elevator output arms.
Adjust the whole system for neutral and test the move-
ment of the surface when actuated by your radio. The
plans show the recommended movement of the rudder
and elevator and this can be adjusted by moving the
clevises in or out on the horns; "in" would be more move-
ment or throw and "out" would be less.
Make the connection from the throttle servo to the
engine by screwing at least 1/4" of one of the6", threaded
one-end pushrods (three provided) into one end of the in-
ner plastic tube provided. As shown on the plans, trim
the length of this wire to suit your engine's requirements
and give it a 'Z'-bend to attach the servo output arm. At
the engine-end of this pushrod, thread at least 1/4" of the
1" threaded stud into the inner pushrod tube and com-
plete the connection with one of the clevises provided.
As before, test the movement of the throttle -pushrod by
radio to ensure free movement.
The aileron servo is now installed in the wing centersec-
tion. As shown on the plans, you need to make a cut-out
in the top of the center section of the lower wing to fit
your servo. Use the length of 1/4" x 3/8" basswood provid-
ed to make the two servo mounting rails—about 1-1/4"
long. Clear away the Monokote ahead and behind the
servo cut-out and glue these rails in place. Mount your
aileron servo with wood screws. Again, as shown on the
plans, the connection between the servo and the aileron
torque rods is made by using the two remaining 6"
threaded one-end pushrods. Thread the nylon torque rod
fittings in place on the exposed arms, thread the
clevises onto the pushrods and connect them to the
nylon fittings. Make the required 'Z'-bends to engage the
servo's output arm and attach. Now adjust the clevises
for neutral aileron with the radio on and the servo plugg-
ed into the receiver. Test the ailerons for free, non-
binding movement.
Everyone tends to set-up the surface throws of a model
to suit their particular style of flying. This is fine as long
as you have a place to start. We recommend that you
start with the surface throws that we indicate below and
then adjust to suit. These movements are based on our
prototype which weighed 7-1/2 to 8-1/2 pounds with
average-weight radio gear;
RUDDER: 1" per side, 2" total
ELEVATOR: 7/8" up and down, 1-3/4" total
AILERONS: 3/8" up, 3/8" down, 3/4" total
CAUTION: After adjustment of your servos, be sure to
reinstall the retaining screws that hold the output arms
in place in your servos.
PRE-FLIGHT INSTRUCTIONS
This section assumes the yourEIder Biplane is completley
done, covered, painted as needed, etc. We are now going
to establish the correct C.G. (Center of Gravity). Start
by completely assembling the airplane with all compo-
nents in place.
Note on the fuselage Plan Sheet #1 that the C.G. is
shown at a position of 5-1/4" behind the leading edge of
the top wing. Use a couple of slivers of masking tape to
now mark this positon on each wingtip of the top wing.
Using a helper, suspend the model off the ground with
fingers directly at the marked positions. The airplane
should hang either level or slightly nose-down. This
would mean that the C.G. is where it should be to provide
you with a stable flying airplane. If, while suspended at
the correct C.G. points, the model exhibits nose-down
or tail-down characteristics then you have some rebal-
ancing to do.
If the tail is hanging low, then you know that some of the
equipment has to be moved forward. Remember, this
balance point is always achieved without fuel in the
tank—that's burn-off weight and cannot be counted.
The easiest component to move also tends to be the
heaviest; the battery pack. Depending on the pack's con-
figuration, it can be placed beneath the fuel tank. If you
still need more weight forward, the servo tray might have
to be moved forward a little. If even more weight is need-
ed (highly unlikely) then you might consider a larger air-
borne battery pack or adding lead weight in or around
the nose area, beneath the tank. If you do have to add
lead to achieve balance, don't worry, the Elder Biplane can
carry a lot of weight and still deliver great flying perfor-
mance. In all of this, don't attempt to fly the model in a
tail-heavy condition!
If your model is nose-heavy, then try moving the battery
pack to a position that achieves balance. We have found
that it is fairly unlikely the your Elder Biplane will turn out
nose-heavy. Remember that if the C.G. is a little ahead of
the point shown on the plans, the model will still fly
nicely.
We highly recommend the use of short lengths of fuel
tubing over each nylon clevis to retain them in the closed
position. This also includes the four clevises used on
the interplane struts.
Prior to flying this model, get in the habit of making a
complete check of the airframe. Is the propeller nut fully
tightened? Batteries in both the airplane and transmit-
ter fully charged? Engine bolts tight? All components
firmly attached to each other? Fuel lines clear? Wheels
roll easily with no binding? And always make it a routine
to perform a radio system check—up is up, down is
down, throttle moves freely and the ailerons move in the
right directions—let's fly!
FLYING
Once again, if this is your first R/C aircraft DO NOT AT-
TEMPT TO FLY IT YOURSELF. Go to your local hobby
shop and obtain information about any local flying
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