III. INTERPLANE STRUTS
1 . YourElderBiplanerequirestheuseoftwointerplane
strut assemblies. The pattern for their assembly and
the illustration showing the method of connection
are on Plan Sheet 4, lower right-hand corner. Note
that when complete, the two required strut
assemblies will be "mirror-images" of one another,
in other words a left and a right. The "Z-bends" on
the bottom of the strut assemblies are first fitted in-
to the holes in the mini-horns, from the outboard
ends of the bottom wing and then rotated upwards.
The top ends, with the threaded clevises, are then at-
tached tothe mini-horns protruding from the bottom
of the top wing. Since threaded clevises are used,
the length of these struts are fully adjustable for
each side of the wings.
2 . From your kit box, locate four of the .072 dia. x 12"
threaded one-end pushrod wires and the single
piece of 1/16" x 14" M.W. These are the parts required
for the two interplane struts. From the 14" piece of
M.W., cut two 7" lengths. Use a pair of pliers to bend
the ends of each of these two pieces to the shape
shown on the plans, which connects the two thread-
ed one-end strut wires. Wrap each end with soft cop-
per wire and solder. Cut the length of each strut as
shown on the plans and use pliers to make the
Z-bends at the bottom of each.
Later, when the model is assembled, you'll be adding the
nylon clevises to each of the strut ends and attaching
these assemblies for adjustment.
IV. FUSELAGE CABANE STRUTS
1 . From your kit box locate the four pre-bent cabane
struts and the two pre-bent cabane strut braces.
Note on the side and top views of the fuselage plans
that the four cabane struts are meant to be inserted
into the 1/8" I.D. brass tubes that have been built into
the fuselage. Note that it may be necessary to adjust
the length of these wires, at the end that inserts into
the tubes. This length should be 1-3/4" to allow the left
and right wires to be fully inserted. Any excess
length should be removed with a carbide cut-off
wheel and your Moto-Tool. Trial-fit each of the four
pieces in place into the fuselage to be sure they in-
sert all the way.
2 . Carefullycleaneachofthewireswithabitofthinner
to remove any oil or grease.
3 . Insert one of the cabane struts into one of the
fuselage's forward cabane tubes. Use tape to secure
it in place, at right angles to the fuselage, as shown
in the side view. Insert another cabane strut in the
rear tube location, on the same side, again using
tape to secure it vertically to the side view of the
fuselage. Now hold one of the braces in place to
these two parts, as shown on the plans. The fit and
relationship should be what is shown. Once
satisfied, carefully and neatly wrap the top, forward
leg of the brace to the top, forward end of the front
strut (a bit of tape can be used to hold the bottom,
rear end of the brace in place, while you're working)
with soft copper wire. Apply a little flux and carefully
solder this joint.
Now carefully slide the assembly out of the tubes
about 1". Remove the tape from the bottom rear
brace/strut joint. Wrap this joint with copper wire
and solder.
Duplicate this procedure on the other side of the
fuselage, being careful to make an exact opposite of
the first strut/brace assembly. These two strut
assemblies can now be set aside for later installa-
tion.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
1. Locate one of the 1/4" dia. x 36" spruce dowels pro-
vided in your kit. Cut a 3" length. Mix a little 1-hour
type epoxy and place some of this glue into the slot
created b y t h e t w o W - 1 A ' s in the lower wing's center
section. Insert the dowel, through the leading edge,
leaving 1/4 " exposed. Add more glue to the top of the
now-inserted dowel. Carefully install the centersec-
tion in place to the fuselage, engaging the dowel
into the hole in F-7. Center the structure to the
fuselage and tape in place and allow to cure.
2. From your kit, locate four nylon mini-horns and four
#2 x 3/8" R.H.W.S. screws. These horns are now
screwed in place to the W-3P ribs in the two lower
wing panels. It is easiest to do this if you first drill a
3/32" dia. hole through each of the horns and then
screw them in place—do not overtighten.
3. Remove the center section from the fuselage once
the glue has cured. From the 3/32" sheet balsa stock,
finish sheeting the rest of the center section's top
surface. Use your sanding block to smooth this top
surface and to smooth the edges flush with the outer
W-1A's and B's.
4. Firmly pin and/or weight the center section over your
protected work surface and epoxy the left and right
lower wing panels in place to it. Do not use so much
adhesive that it drips or runs but enough to ade-
quately coat the parts required. Prop each wingtip
up 11/16" to achieve the correct dihedral and allow the
structure to cure.
5. When the wing can be removed from your work sur-
face, reposition it in place in the fuselage wing sad-
dle. Turn the whole thing over and mark the location
of the two required rear wing bolt holes onto the
wing's hardwood trailing edge. With the wing firmly
and squarely pinned and/or weighted on the
fuselage, drill two 1/8" dia. holes through the bolt
positions just marked. These two holes go all the
way through the hardwood trailing edge and the ply
wing mounting plate in the fuselage. Remove the
wing from the fuselage. Now tap the two holes in the
fuselage mounting plate with an 8-32 tap. Once the
threads have been established, use a little thin CA
adhesive to coat them and then run the tap through
these threads again, several times; this toughens-up
the threads. Now try the 8-32 nylon bolts supplied in
14
Содержание Elder Biplane RC-37
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