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Page 74
CHAPTER ELEVEN
SECTION 11.3
WIRING THE CONNECTOR JUNCTION BOX (continued)
DB42 WIRING TEST
1.
With no control cable attached set controller to “elements retracted”.
2. The next step is to extend the Driven, D1, and D2 elements.
3. Go into Setup mode and select “Create Modify” mode. Next attach the control cable cable to the
controller.
4. Select each element in turn and extend it to about 16” , as indicated by the controller LCD display,
which will allow you to put an ohm meter probe on the copper elements during the tests. ENSURE
THE ELEMENTS WILL NOT HIT ANY OBSTRUCTIONS BEFORE EXTENDING THEM.
5. Remove the control cable BEFORE exiting “Create, Modify”. This is to prevent the elements from
moving when changing the controller to the first test frequency.
6. Set the controller to normal direction by hitting the button labeled “Normal”, the green LED next to
the button should light.
7. Set the controller frequency to any frequency in the 20m band.
8. When the controller indicates it is no longer trying to move the elements (the LED labeled “Tuning”
stops flashing) connect the control cable again.
9. Set the ohm meter to a low ohms scale (around 200 ohms or so) and check the resistance on each
of the three “driven” elements (Driven, D1, D2) between the center conductor of the SO-239 (or N
type if applicable) and the two copper tapes. The Driven element should measure near a dead short
while D1 and D2 should measure open circuit or some very high value. Note that when an element is
in the “driven” mode there will still be a dead short between the copper tapes, rest assured it is only a
dead short at DC not RF frequencies, intended by the design of the balun. This verifies that the Driv-
en element is selected to be the one power will be applied to in this mode.
10. Next check the resistance between the two copper tapes on both D1 and D2, it should be very
near a dead short. This verifies they are switched to be passive elements by the internal relay board.
11. The next test is to verify the antenna switch has selected the proper coax line.
12. Using the ohm meter verify there is close to a dead short between the center conductor of the S0-
239 (or N connector) labeled “IN” and the center conductor of the S0-239 labeled “OUT1”. Verify that
an open circuit exists between the “IN” connector and both “OUT2” and “OUT3” center pins.
13. If any of these tests fail check your wiring and correct any mistakes.
14. Remove the control cable.
15. Set controller to “180” direction (leave the frequency as it was on 20m) and wait for tuning to
stop.
16. Connect control cable and repeat the above procedure except now D2 is the driven element and
Driven and D1 are passives so D2 will now show continuity between the coax connector center pin and
the two copper elements and the other two elements will not. As before check the elements that are
passives for continuity between the two copper tapes.
17. The antenna switch box should now show a dead short between the “IN” connector center pin and
the “OUT3”connector center pin. There should be an open circuit between “IN” and “OUT1” and
“OUT2”.
18. Remove the control cable from the back of the controller.
19. Set the controller to “NORMAL” direction and the frequency to anywhere in the 30m band, wait for
tuning to stop.
20. Connect control cable and repeat the above procedure except now D1 is the driven element so
there should be a short circuit between the center pin of the coax connector and the copper tapes.
The Driven EHU will show a short between the coax connector center pin and the copper tape and D2
will show an open circuit from the coax connector to the copper tape.
