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ENGLISH
with oil for filters. Clean filter box inside using a cloth and check the
presence of foreign bodies. Now reassemble all the parts being careful
to place correctly the 4 bars that maintain the filter in its position and
tight the 4 screws again. Wash the filter for maximum 2-3 times and
then replace it with a new one.
!
WARNING
. If the filter becomes clogged with fine dust as well
as normal dirt, replace it with a new one.
!
WARNING.
Dirty air filter may compromise the correct opera-
tion of the engine and it causes poor performance. Torn or broken fil-
ters can allow dirt to enter the engine and cause rapid deterioration of
the piston rings, piston and barrel.
9.2- CHECKING OF THE GEAR OIL LEVEL
Operate when the engine is cold. Maintain the engine in vertical posi-
tion and remove the oil level screw on the transmission crankcase.
(photo 3). Check that the oil level reaches the lower edge of the level
hole. If there is too much oil, let it flow out from the hole until it stops
flowing and collect the oil in a suitable container. If there is not enough
oil, top up as required through the breather hole located at the top.
After checking it, tighten the screws. Use ELF Moto Gear Oil 10 W 40
ANTI Clutch Slippage or Shell advance gear SAE 10 W 40 API GL-3
9.3- GEAR OIL REPLACEMENT
Change the oil when the engine is cold. Unscrew the screw on the lower
side of the clutch/gear group (Photo 3-A). Collect the oil flowing out in
a suitable container. Wait till the oil has completely flown out and, if
necessary, tilt the engine to the side to make this operation easier.
Tighten the screw withy strength. Unscrew the breather pipe in the top
side of the crankcase and fill it out with 100cc of ELF Moto Gear Oil 10
W 40 ANTI Clutch Slippage oil. Fit the pipe and its tube again. As an
alternative you can use also oil: Shell advance gear SAE 10 W 40 API
GL-3 or an oil with 10W40 viscosity compatible with clutch (similar to
motorcycle engine oil)
!
WARNING:
Do not throw spent oil into the environment. Dispo-
se of it correctly through authorized collection points.
9.4- STARTER ROPE REPLACEMENT (Flash Starter)
Remove the starter from the engine unscrewing the 4 screws (Photo 4).
Remove the handle rope. Be careful since the central wheel will turn till
the spring is completely discharged: keep it and discharge it slowly to
avoid damages or possible injuries. Remove the central screw and its
cover (photo 5).
!
Attention!
Under the cover there are two teeth for the starter
jaw (check their condition and if worn replace them); under them 2
small calipers. Be very careful not to lose these small parts.
Prepare the new rope and tie a knot at the top. Remove the plastic
wheel and the old rope. Thread the new rope in its hole (photo 6), wind
up the rope on the wheel (according to the entrance sense of the rope
on the wheel) (Photo 7). Now insert the plastic wheel in its housing
again, and check through the hole that the internal spring hook is per-
fectly coupled (Photo 8), place the springs, the teeth for the starter jaw
and screw the cover again using medium thread-locker.
All the parts in movement, including the springs, must be well lubrica-
ted.
Now go on by charging the return spring: take the head of the rope
leaving 10-20 cm coming out the hole with “u” shape on the wheel
side. Turn the wheel three times in counter clock-wise sense till it stops
in front of the exit hole on the aluminium case. Keeping the plastic
wheel stopped, pass the rope through the case hole. Insert the handle
and the washer and tie a single knot as shown in photo 9.
!
ATTENTION:
verify that the return spring does not reach the end
of the stroke. Pull the rope completely and turn the wheel again to
check that it can make at least one turn before stopping.
This test is very important because the spring hasn’t been studied to
reach the end of the stroke and, if it happens, the spring will break.
Reassemble the starter in the engine and tight the 4 screws (M5) with
strength (see the tightening torque values table).
9.5- HOW TO CHECK THE COOLING SYSTEM LEVEL
Periodically check the cooling system: when the engine is cold the coo-
lant must reach half of the bottle. If necessary add some liquid, using
the one specific for aluminium radiator.
!
ATTTENTION:
never open the cap when the engine is hot, you
could burn.
9.6- HOW TO EMPTY THE COOLING SYSTEM
If necessary empty the cooling system by unscrewing the proper screw
(see photo 10) and collect the leaking liquid. Remove the cap to make
this operation easier.
!
ATTENTION:
Do not empty it when the engine is hot, you could
burn.
9.7- HOW TO FILL IN THE COOLING SYSTEM
Fill in the cooling system using coolant specific for aluminium radiator
till ½ of the water charging bottle. For systems with low radiator make
the air exits from the breather hole of the 90° pipe fitted on the head
(photo 11) or from any other breather holes fitted by the manufactu-
rer.
10- HOW TO BEHAVE WHEN FLYING
Maximum acceleration is recommended only to take off (full power) or
when really necessary!
In order to avoid a poor mixture from acceleration/ascent to level
flight conditions, loosen the engine till a descending phase and then
gradually accelerate again till achieving a level flight or a glide angle
or a rise angle wished. In this way you will be sure to maintain firm and
efficient the carburation, avoiding being over rpm with a minimum
valve/throttle opening. We remind you that two stroke engines do not
stand constant range for a long time too much. Take care of your engi-
ne by varying now and then the rpm range. In this way the engine will
have constant performance and a good elasticity improving its working
during the time.
10.1- TEMPERATURE THERESHOLDS
You engine is equipped with a thermocouple to read the water tempe-
rature to which it is possible to connect a specific instrument
(928.830.003) that detects the water temperature, the rpm and the
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