•
Lock bevel locking lever.
• Set blade to correct depth for workpiece.
• Set mitre gauge to 0° and tighten lock knob.
• Make sure wood is clear of blade before turning on saw.
• Turn saw on.
• Let blade build up to full speed before moving workpiece into
blade.
• Hold the workpiece firmly when feeding the workpiece into the
blade.
CAUTION!
The hand closest to the blade should be placed on the
mitre gauge lock knob and the hand farthest from the blade
should be placed on the workpiece.
•
When cut is complete, turn saw off. Wait for blade to come to a
complete stop before removing workpiece.
MAKING A BEVEL RIP CUT
WARNING!
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid possible serious injury.
WARNING!
The rip fence must be on the right side of the blade to
avoid trapping the wood and causing kickback. Placement of the
rip fence to the left of the blade will result in kickback and the risk
of serious personal injury.
•
Remove mitre gauge.
• Install featherboard in the appropriate position for the cut being
made.
• Unlock the bevel locking lever.
• Adjust bevel angle to desired setting.
• Lock bevel locking lever.
• Set blade to correct depth for workpiece.
• Position the rip fence the desired distance from the blade for the
cut and securely lock the handle.
• Make sure wood is clear of blade before turning on saw.
• When ripping a long workpiece, slide the rear out-feed support to
fully extend.
• Turn saw on.
• Position workpiece flat on table with edge push against rip fence.
• Let blade build up to full speed before moving workpiece into
blade.
• Once blade has made contact with workpiece, use hand closest to
rip fence to guide it. Make sure the edge of workpiece remains in
solid contact with both rip fence and surface of table. If ripping a
narrow piece, attach the sub fence assembly to the rip fence, use
a push stick and/or push blocks to move piece through cut and
past the blade.
• When cut is complete, turn saw off. Wait for blade to come to a
complete stop before removing workpiece.
MAKING A COMPOUND (BEVEL) MITRE CUT
• Remove the rip fence.
• Unlock the bevel locking lever.
• Adjust the bevel angle to the desired setting.
• Lock the bevel locking lever.
• Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece.
• Set the mitre gauge to the desired angle and tighten the lock
knob.
• Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning on the
saw.
• Turn the saw on.
• Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the workpiece
into the blade.
• Hold the workpiece firmly when feeding the workpiece into the
blade.
CAUTION!
The hand closest to the blade should be placed on the
mitre gauge lock knob and the hand farthest from the blade
should be placed on the workpiece.
•
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the blade to come
to a complete stop before removing the workpiece.
MAKING A NON-THROUGH CUT
Non-through cuts (made with a standard 10" (25.4 cm) blade) can
be made with the grain (ripping) or across the grain (cross cut). The
use of a non-through cut is essential to cutting grooves, rabbets,
and dadoes. This is the only type cut that is made without the
blade guard assembly installed. Make sure the blade guard
assembly is reinstalled upon completion of this type of cut. Read
the appropriate section which describes the type of cut in addition
to this section on non-through or dado cuts. For example, if your
non-through cut is a straight cross cut, read and understand the
section on straight cross cuts before proceeding.
WARNING!
To reduce the risk of serious injury when making
non-through cuts, follow all applicable warnings and instructions
listed below in addition to those listed above for the relevant
through cut.
WARNING!
When making a non-through cut, the blade is covered
by the workpiece during most of the cut. Be alert to the exposed
blade at the start and finish of every cut to reduce the risk of
personal injury.
WARNING!
Never feed wood with your hands when making any
non-through cut such as rabbets or dadoes. To avoid personal
injury, always use push blocks, push sticks, and featherboards.
WARNING!
Read the appropriate section which describes the type
of cut in addition to this section on non-through cuts. For example,
if your non-through cut is a straight cross cut, read and understand
the section on straight cross cuts before proceeding.
WARNING!
Once all dado and non-through cuts are completed,
unplug saw and reinstall riving knife in uppermost position. Install
anti-kickback pawls and blade guard.
•
Turn saw off and unplug saw.
• Remove the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls.
• Place riving knife in “middle” position.
• Unlock the bevel locking lever.
• Adjust the bevel angle to 0°.
• Lock the bevel locking lever.
• Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece.
• Depending on the shape and size of the wood, use either the rip
fence or mitre gauge.
• Plug the saw into the power source and turn the saw on.
• Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the workpiece
into the blade.
• Always use push blocks, push sticks, and/or featherboards
appropriately when making non-through cuts to reduce the risk
of serious injury.
• When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the blade to come
to a complete stop before removing the workpiece.
Once all non-through cuts are completed:
• Turn saw off and unplug saw.
• Reinstall the riving knife in the “uppermost” position then install
the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls.
MAKING A DADO CUT
An optional dado table insert (supplied) is required for this
procedure. All blades and dado sets must not be rated less than the
speed of this tool. This saw is designed for use with a 8" (20 cm)
stack dado (up to width of 1/2" (12.7 mm)).
CAUTION!
Do not use an adjustable dado or molding cutters on
this saw.
WARNING!
When making a non-through cut, the blade is covered
by the workpiece during most of the cut. Be alert to the exposed
blade at the start and finish of every cut to reduce the risk of
personal injury.
WARNING!
Always put all inner and outer flanges in proper
25
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