Model Airways CURTISS JN-4D JENNY, Инструкция по эксплуатации

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21
Figures 3-18
through
3-20
illustrate the
strut clips at Stations 2 through 5.
The side brace wires from Stations 1 to 5 are
double on the real aircraft, side to side. The
inboard wire would connect to the inner side
of the strut clips. However, since there is no
inner clip to attach brace wires, I have elimi-
nated the second inboard wire on the model.
If such an omission bothers you, install a sin-
gle eye rig fitting (R1) into the inner side of
the vertical struts and add the inner wires.
12. Installing Cross Brace Wires
Some of the cross brace wires can be installed
during this stage. The wires are rigged with
the 0.010"-diameter gray nylon cord and the
short turnbuckles (R3A) similar to wing drag
wires. However, do not install any wires at this
time that would interfere with installation of
the cockpit controls. Also, if you elect to add
the tubing, piping, and linkages for the
engine, you may want to hold off on rigging
the side brace wires forward of Station 4 to
give you better access to the interior.
Install the wires at top of the fuselage in way
of the turtleback before installing the turtle-
back discussed in the next paragraph. It would
also be wise to install the brace wires across
the fuselage at Station 6 aft, since these inter-
nal wires will be a little difficult to install.
13. Building and Installing
the Turtleback
On the real aircraft, the turtleback was secured
to the fuselage with screw clips so it could be
removed. For the model, you can permanently
glue it in place. All the formers for the turtle-
back are laser-cut (F3 through F10).
First, glue the side strips on top of the longer-
ons, then add the formers. Notch out the strips
in way of the side strut clips that lay over the
longerons at Station 6 to 10. The forwardmost
former has a small access door, probably a
viewing port to the back of the fuselage. Next,
install the stringers in the laser-cut slots of the
first former. The rest of the formers do not have
slots. Glue the stringers on top of them, but
carefully mark the formers in pencil before-
hand so you align them according to the plan.
The aft ends of the stringers butt into the form-
ers
(Figure 3-21)
. Finally, add the securing
screw clips along the edge. These are faked
using a piece of self-adhesive copper tape.
Fig-
ure 3-21
illustrates the turtleback construction.
Option:
If you want the turtleback to be
removable, build it directly on the plan, but
make sure it will fit the fuselage longerons.
14. Installing the Step Plate
Fit the photo-etched copper step plate (F22)
only on the left side of the fuselage (looking
forward). Bend the center tab down on top of
the longeron and glue in place
(Figure 3-22)
.
FIG. 3-17 CLIPS AT STATIONS 6 TO 11
BEND
F13
(TOP AND BOTTOM
SIMILAR)
LONGERON
FIG. 3-21 TURTLEBACK CONSTRUCTION
FIT A FLUSH
DOOR IN
OPENING
NOTCH IN F3
TYPICAL STRINGER 1/32" X 3/64" –
STRINGERS FIT IN NOTCHES
AT F3, ON TOP OF F4 TO F9,
AND BUTT INTO F10
LAST OUTBOARD
STRINGER STOPS
AT F8
TYPICAL F4
THROUGH F10
TYPICAL FALSE CLIP – USE SELF-
ADHESIVE COPPER TAPE
3/64" SQUARE
LONGERON
KEEP STRINGERS
STRAIGHT
GLUE
FUSELAGE LONGERON
FIG. 3-18 CLIPS AT STATION 2
STRUT TO
RADIATOR
F16
F17
LONGERON
BEND TAB OVER
STRUT
BEND TAB UNDER LONGERON
TOP
BOTTOM
FIG. 3-19 CLIPS AT STATION 3
F18
F19
BEND OVER LONGERON
BEND UNDER LONGERON
TOP
BOTTOM
FIG. 3-20 CLIPS AT STATIONS 4 & 5
BEND TOP EYES
OUT TO ANGLE
OF WING WIRES
F20
BEND TABS
UNDER
LONGERON
BEND TABS
AROUND
VERTICAL
STRUT
BEND TABS INTO
A BOX AROUND
WING STRUT
TOP
BOTTOM
F10
F9
F8
F7
F6
F5
F4
F3
FIG. 3-22 STEP PLATE
F22
BEND DOWN
OVER
LONGERON