MARLOW-HUNTER MH31, Руководство оператора

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Sails and Rigging
12.6
From the sheet stopper the line can then be used by the
winch for additional torque when reefing
12.6.13 Reef Line 2
Reef line 2 lowers the mainsail to the second reef point.
The line arrangement is the same as Reef Line 1 (above)
except for the reef points are at the second cringle and
the line is routed port side.
12.6.14 Spinnaker Sheets
The spinnaker sheets are a pair of lines that control the
spinnaker clew and the shape of the sail. One of which
is used at a given time. Each line is attached to the
spinnaker clew with one line running around the outer
shroud and lifelines aft to the spinnaker block located on
the arch. The other sheet is routed around the forestay,
outer shroud and lifelines to the opposite spinnaker block.
Each line ends at a helm winch which can be used for
additional torque when trimming.
12.7 Rigging the Boat
Your new Marlow-Hunter boat will be fully rigged by your
dealer during the commissioning process. This includes
stepping the mast with standing rigging in place, attach-
ing the boom, installing sails with running rigging in place
and tuning the mast.
Stepping and unstepping the mast will inevitably be part
of sailboat ownership. Seasonal or long term storage,
bridge clearance or repairs may require de-rigging the
boat. The following will discuss the process of rigging
the sailboat. De-rigging the boat will essentially be the
reverse process. Please refer to the rigging manufactur-
er’s OEM manual for additional details on stepping and
tuning the mast.
12.7.1 Prep the Rig
Lay the mast onto two trestles or other appropriate
support with luff groove (aft mast) face up. Place the
boom and optional solid vang onto two other trestles
or supports.
Verify or mount the mast spreaders (see the spar
manufacturer’s OEM Operational Manual). Ensure
the mast is elevated enough so spreaders are off the
ground.
Wash mast, boom and optional solid vang with a
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mild detergent solution. Lubricate moving parts (i.e.
sheaves, etc) with a silicon spray lubricant.
Check halyard installation based on the type of rig
(conventional or in-mast furling) and optional sails
(spinnaker).
Verify halyard control ends exit the mast either port
or starboard as noted in Figures 12.19 and 12.20.
Clean and lubricate any shackles.
Verify and test electronic components (anchor light,
steaming light and optional wind instrument) installed
on the mast are wired properly. Use a 12V battery to
test.
Verify or install any non-electrical components to the
mast-head (i.e. windex, aerials, etc).
Clean and lubricate all standing rigging turnbuckles.
Verify or attach all standing rigging (Figures 12.16
and 12.17). All adjustable shrouds should be slack.
The lower ends of the V1s and D1s will be loose (later
installed to the chainplates after stepping).
12.7.2 Pre-Bend the Mast
NOTE: Never use anything more than a pair of wrenches to tighten
your rigging. Using an extended piece of pipe on the handle of a wrench
can over-tighten the rigging and possibly damage the mast or rigging.
Tighten the reverse diagonals RD1 followed by RD2
by the same number of turns to induce the mast
bend.
Measure the bend by tensioning a line or the main
halyard between the masthead and the gooseneck.
The maximum amount of bend should be no more
than 6” to 8” for the standard mast and 2” to 3” for
the furling mast as measured perpendicular from the
face of the mast to the halyard at the deepest part
of the bend. It can measure less, based on the sail
shape and your own preference.
Ensure the bend is evenly distributed along the mast
to give a smooth shape.
Ensure the mast is also straight from side to side.
Tighten or loosen the RDs to achieve this. (Note:
Always maintain loose D2s until the mast is stepped
(see below) and subsequently adjusted from the
bosums seat.)
Lash the V1s and D1s to the bottom of the mast to
prevent their swinging when craning the mast.
Attach the jib furler assembly to the mast forestay
fitting.
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